Water tanks - Watermaker install?

[mikeandrebecca]

Although our PDQ 32 is currently on the hard for the winter, we are making plans for our Caribbean cruise beginning late next year. Our boat has just the standard (if there is such a thing) water tank with a 47 gallon capacity. We would like to increase that, and install a watermaker, and have some questions on both of these.

For those on a PDQ 32 who have expanded their water-carrying capacity, could you share how you did so? Did you use hard or flexible tanks? Where did you locate them? Are they somehow tied into the main tank?

As for a watermaker, did you install a dedicated through-hull for it? If not, what did you do? If you did put a new through-hull in, where did it go?

We were also thinking that having the ability to use salt water for washing dishes would help in conserving water. Has anyone organized that on their 32?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Mike and Rebecca

[thinwater]

Never did that on a PDQ, but did set-up a sytem for a friend, and I think I know what I would do:
* Pump. A cheap faucet/pump combo: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... assNum=298. I found these pumps to be quite reliable, lasting over 15 years in 2 installs. I would mount the pump on the hull below the shower water pump, just below the waterline (not self priming).
* Through-hull. Instead of a new fitting I would re-use the speed sensor fitting. I always keep the plug in anyway. Also, that keeps all of the fitings in one compartment. I had a sea-cock failure the first day I owned the boat, and the fact that it was in a sealed compartment was a god send. I might just get a spare plug and drill/tap right through that; if it fails I pop the plug back in.

My other thought is that I might get just the pump (sold separately) and a switch and hook it to a common sink dishwashing hose/spray head. I have done that, too. If you make that choise, put a strainer before the spray head; it will clog with stuff that grows in the line.

Done this way, it is a few hour job, less than $50, and adds little weight.

[mat0jab]

I plan on following Dream Catchers lead on the addition of a saltwater pump for doing the dishes..... Below is a link to his page on what he installed.

http://www.theconchhorn.com/DreamCatche ... asher.aspx


Mark,

Whistler II
PDQ 32 #41

[thinwater]

and is not what you want. That is for blasting mud and nosy neighbors. I have used what I suggested myself for 10 years, and though you may chose a different brand, I stand by the sizing. My pump was about 20' from the sink too.

In my mind, the sinks are small and too prone to splashing for extra pressure to make sense.

Also, remember that when you introduce saltwater into the galley area you are greatly increasing your risk of corrosion. Not everything in that area (stove) is stainless. I think you want to take it easy with the salt water pressure.

My thoughts.

[Nina Bonita]

Water Tanks- We have a second water tank, 35 gallons, installed in the Starboard hull under the bed storage area. The hose runs around the stern lockers and back to the one water pump under the the main tank. A simple handle opens one tank at a time. It would be far better to have installed the second water tank in the Port hull for two reasons: One- shorter hose run to the water pump. Two, way better boat balance since the main tank is fitted mainly to the Starboard side under the catch-all, when you consider the extra weight of approx. 8.35 lbs/ gallon X 75 gallons= 626 lbs. mostly to one side is not ideal. As far as salt water rinsing the dishes, we have gotten use to bringing them down the transom steps in a large bin to rinse and scrub. Good exercise. Our family of four could easily use 40 gallons in 3 days, until we got the additional 35 gallon tank, and got smarter.

Watermaker- I was looking into the expense and hassle to install one and the amps that is required to run them (plenty), when a friend came back from a recent boat show (I believe Miami, FL) and told me of a French company that has designed a revolutionary unit (2 foot cylinder, approx, 4 " diameter)that you just drag behind your cat and the current provides the energy necessary to make the water. You just fill up your tank while underway with the hose that is attached to the unit. Maybe someone has heard of this do-hickey -thing- a- ma-bob.

[mikeandrebecca]

Thanks everyone! Please keep the info coming. I actually made a post on our Blog about how helpful everyone is here:

http://www.zerotocruising.com/?p=2623

[Nina Bonita]

I have some pix's of the extra 35 gallon water tank at this web location. Sorry that you have to view all the pix's to get to the tank and hose connections. http://www.flickr.com/photos/nina_bonita

All the best,
empty nester sailor

[mikeandrebecca]

Thanks Gus! Some very helpful pics there.

Can you tell me what the hatch in this pic is for?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nina_bonit ... 804837378/

Mike

[amytom]

Mike,

That's the Propane Locker. Not installed on all the boats.

Tom

[mikeandrebecca]

Thanks Tom. Our propane is stored in the port side anchor locker so, as you mentioned, we don't have a hatch like that.

[amytom]

I think the change may coincide with the verticle fridge. My fridge vents to the port bow locker so any propane stored there could easily migrate into the galley.

[thinwater]

Thanks Tom. Our propane is stored in the port side anchor locker so, as you mentioned, we don't have a hatch like that.

Leaks around the tank valves are comon. Leaks on the regulators are very common. Leaks on solenoid valves are common.Unless that bow locker was designed for propane storage, there may be a serious hazard there. Certainly, at the bare minimum, the locker must have a drain (which I beieve it does, if it like mine), it should not have any other wiring in it (don't add ana anchor windlass on that side - I think you were considering the starboard side?) and don't cut any holes into the cabin. I'm also a bit concerned baout propane gathering in the crash tank, if the hatch is left open for drying. All things to be careful about.

I'm sure PDQ thought this through so I would not be alarmed, but it really does limit your options on modifications and using that space.

Yes, I have a vertical fridge and a propane locker. I'm not a big fan of the vertical fridge, but I like the propane locker.

[mikeandrebecca]

Thanks for the concern. Our port (and starboard) anchor locker does have a vent at the bottom, and there are no other holes into the cabin from that side.

You are correct in that our anchor windlass will be installed on the starboard side. We did purchase one but have not yet installed it.

And we also have a top-loading fridge, not the vertical one.

[thinwater]

Do remember it is not for pulling the boat up to the anchor. If it windy, use the engine. If it is very light, small bumps on the windlass and the motion of the waves will do.

As you know, you will need to use a rope-chain splice. There can be problems with the splice being too big when first made:
* Taper the rope ends. Do not finish them all at the same spot.
* Use a gloved hand to tension the rope as it enters the gypsy. Sometimes it takes a little load to make the rope grab and stay far enough inside in the teeth.

[mikeandrebecca]

Thanks for the tips. We are newbies so any and all advice is welcome!