Asymetrical Spinnaker Rigging.

[Magic Time]

Asymetrical Spinnaker Rigging.

I have an asymetrical spinnaker on my 32. Mast head set in a sock.
I would like to here from others as to how they set up the running rigginng for their shoot.
Any photos would be great.
Thanks
David / Magic time

[eepstein]

Mine is a 36, so its a bit different. But basically, I use the spinnaker halyard to raise and lower, keep a light line for a single sheet and a removable snatch block back on the toe rail near the cockpit for the turn to the winch. I store the entire thing in an ice check in a forward compartment with a 'damprid' bag so that it does not suffer from mold damage. Here is the link for a posting a did on it. http://desertstarpdq36.blogspot.com/201 ... -sail.html

I secure the tack to where ever its seems best at the time. For a run I secure the tack to the leeward bow cleat via the anchor roller, for a broad reach I secure it to the base of the roller furling.

Hope that helps,
Eric

[thinwater]

I use a chute a fair amount, so I keep the lines rigged, just as I do for a jib.

* Tie a bridle between the ends of the forward beam with the apex (tie an overhand loop there) at the top of the gull striker. The tack of the chute attaches with a carabiner. This Briddle is fixed an stays rigged.
* 2 sheets. Lead to turning blocks somewhere between 5-10 feet forward of the transom; the correct spot depends on the cut of the chute. Since my genoa was installed with long tracks, I simply have 2 cars on the track. Though you could test positions in light air by tieing blocks to the stainchian bases, eventually you are going to need something with backing.
* Watch where the sheet rub on the gel coat; add an SS rub rail.
* You don't need 4 cockpit winches; 3 will do.
* Clip the squeezer lift line to the tack line briddle. You don't want it blowwing away!
* I use the squeezer as a sail bag; when I'm done I lower straight into the port hatch.
* If running deep it can be handy to have an extra set of cleats on the bow and to move the tack to the windward bow. There are some notes on my blog. This is optional; it will work well centered, and that is what monohulls and most racing boats do.
* IMPORTANT. Rig the laxy sheet (the one not in use) forward of the tack line, in front of EVERYTHING. This will allow you to an outside jibe. Google it for a good description. Jibing inside is a mistake on these boats (just too much trouble and asking for a wrap if there is any wind).

Jibing does take some practice but is not difficult. This is the easy way (there are faster ways).
* Center the main. One less thing.
* Make certain BOTH sheets are ready to run. put a single turn on the new sheet.
* Turn through the jibe at a steady pace. Do NOT stop. The chute will wrap on the forestay if you wait too long.
* Be ready to release the working sheet and trim the new sheet as the boat turns. Start before it is dead downwind and finish before it is on the new heading. Allow JUST enough slack for the sail to blow well out in front of the boat, but no extra.
* Let the main out.

Smooth jibes can be a point of pride, beautiful when everything comes together in one fluid turn with little loss in speed.

[mikeandrebecca]

Good post Drew. Our rigging is similar although we attach the tack to a block which runs along the bridle line. This is the way our boat's PO taught us. I'm not sure it is better or worse.

[thinwater]

I saw that. I think the block on the bridle is good and I wouldn't change it. I tried something similar before you bought your boat, and it seemed to hang up on the bow light (on gull stirker) for me. Some small difference, I guess.

I will add this; it is still best to center the chute tack before jibing. One less thing.

Normally I just keep it centered, when simply day sailing for fun. If really headed down wind, I left the rigging for hauling it to windward, much like yours, in place.