PDQ OWNERS FORUM

As happens I overreached and rolled head first into the port forward hold. Other than my pride the only damage is to the hatch lens which needs to be replaced.
The two hinges consist of 8 screws on the hull side. The 4 nut and bolt have been removed with some patience. The remaining 4 screws are so corroded to the frame that they continue to resist my impact wrench and a full swing from my hammer.

Has anyone successfully removed the plastic type hinge pins?

Has anyone tried to drill out the stainless screws?

Any suggestions?

Brian
MIDORI
32032

Brian

Last summer, my sailmaker stepped through the port side salon hatch (the large hatch in the salon). Is this the lens that you need to replace?

He replaced the lens a week later but did not remove the frame. I did not see him do it but he did call me twice to get the exact model number so he could source the replacement from Bomar. It came out perfect to my eyes.

Dan

Just following my post I was able to remove the lens without removing the frame! Simple, the inside gasket gently pulls out of the frame. From outside using a razor knife without scratching the frame cut the caulking that held the lens in. The broken lens has been removed.

Now to find a local source to cut an acrylic replacement lens. Port Charlotte Florida area. Any suggestions?

Brian
MIDORI
32032

I just went to a local residential / commercial glass supplier. There should be many in Florida given it's exposure to hurricanes.

Henry

Brian,
Please share when you find someone to cut these, I will want to replace a few myself!

Sam

Add me to the list too

I've done this 3 times (spare, dropped an anchor, kid stepped on on while open). Really not very hard.

* Remove the whole hatch, not just the lens. The are bedded with butyl and are easy to remove. Much easier to work on at home.
* Remove the levers. If it is one of the smaller ones, the support is with the lever.
* Pop out the plastic.
* Clean out the caulk. Knife followed by wire brush. Xylene helps de-bond.
* Measure carefully and cut a new hatch. The plastic cuts easily with a hand cutter + snap. Detail shape with hand grinder. Cut holes with hole saw.
* Caulk. Mask carefully, space the window just so, and place the nozzel so that it injects into and around the glass.
* Rebed in the deck with butyl.

All told, perhaps 1 hour.

I have completed the lens replacement.
16 1/2 square acrylic from Absolute Plastic Solutions Inc, 2178 Andrea Lane, Fort Myers Florida www.absoluteplasticsolutions.com
They duplicated my broken hatch with holes 50.00 plus tax.
I used Dow 795 ( thanks Drew) which is a construction silicone, excellent viscosity to push into the void. Purchased at Coastal Construction 5810 Corporation Circle Fort Myers 6.82 plus tax. (one gunable tube would do three or four hatches, it is date sensitive so do not buy extra)
For south west Florida I would recommend both suppliers.
Plastic shims to centre the lens in the frame.
Be sure to mask and protect surrounding surfaces from caulk.
Brian

Nice. Not so hard after all. Yes, masking really helps. With caulk, always peal the tape as soon as you are finished; if it skins first, pulling will loosen the bond.

FWIW, Defender sells the rubber gasket, but mostly they just need cleaned.

I replaced a broken hatch lens on my old Hunter and did exactly as you did. I did not remove the hatch. I cut out the sealant and removed the old lens, and had a new acrylic lens made at a local plastics shop for about $100. I cleaned out the old sealant best I could, and after taping the lens and frame, bedded the new one with Dow 795. Four years later it is still holding tenaciously and not a drop of leakage. Saved hundreds over buying an entire new hatch. After trying all sorts of other kinds of sealants that would maybe last a year, I also rebedded the acrylic skylights on the Hunter with the 795, and it's been going on five years without a leak. I wouldn't use anything else but Dow 795 to seal acrylic or plexiglass, nothing else I've used comes close to do as good a job.