As information, I finally ordered a new mainsail for my 32. The old one had almost completely lost its shape. The 3 bids I got were:
North sails $4200
Mack Sails $2876
Rolly Tasker $1998
UK sails never responded. I am going with Rolly tasker. They have distributors in the US, but the sails are made in Thailand. 8.8 oz Dacron, 5 battens, and 2 reef points. Same luff attachments (slugs, and cars where battens meet luff) as original. I let folks know how it turns out.
Bob Gruber
Island Time 32
mainsail
Re: mainsail
Please let us know your experience. I've used a local loft for my sails, but I've read generally good things about Rolly sails over the years.
Re: mainsail
I replaced the sails on my 36 a couple months back and went with Mack Sails. Cost was $4700 for main ($2700) and genoa ($2000). The main is a loose footed full batten 2 reef main in 8.62 high aspect Dacron. The genoa is 135% 7.7 oz marblehead with sunbrella sun cover and foam luff. The mainsail came with the hardware needed to fit my Tides Marine Strong Track; I didn't have to transfer anything from the old sail.
When looking at price quotes be sure to compare apples to apples as the sail cloth used will affect price. A few of the lofts I contacted were pushing a low priced cloth. Most of these lofts just wanted to talk about how long the sail would last but none of them wanted to talk about performance. They really didn't want to discuss other cloth options which gave me the impression they just wanted to give the lowest quote possible.
A few of the places I contacted:
Local Loft: Admitted they would outsource the job as "it wasn't worth their time" to do it in house
Different Local Loft: Said I should only do a 100% Jib as anything else is to big for a PDQ 36; this is not true.
Rolly Tasker: Lowest price quoted ($3600 + shipping + need to use old sail hardware). I wasn't impressed with the recommended cloth or overseas manufacturing. Online reviews are mixed; some good and some really bad. Five week turn around time.
North Sails: Way to expensive.
Calverts: Contacted them online and via phone but never received quote. When I called I was told to fill out the online form again.
Mack Sails: Submitted online request for quote and Travis at Mack contacted me to go over my sail needs in order to provide a more accurate quote; $4700 which included shipping and new sail hardware. He explained why they only use premium cloth and its benefits. I also liked that the sails were made in the USA (Florida) and not outsourced overseas; it's good to support American jobs. I received my sails two weeks after ordering.
When looking at price quotes be sure to compare apples to apples as the sail cloth used will affect price. A few of the lofts I contacted were pushing a low priced cloth. Most of these lofts just wanted to talk about how long the sail would last but none of them wanted to talk about performance. They really didn't want to discuss other cloth options which gave me the impression they just wanted to give the lowest quote possible.
A few of the places I contacted:
Local Loft: Admitted they would outsource the job as "it wasn't worth their time" to do it in house
Different Local Loft: Said I should only do a 100% Jib as anything else is to big for a PDQ 36; this is not true.
Rolly Tasker: Lowest price quoted ($3600 + shipping + need to use old sail hardware). I wasn't impressed with the recommended cloth or overseas manufacturing. Online reviews are mixed; some good and some really bad. Five week turn around time.
North Sails: Way to expensive.
Calverts: Contacted them online and via phone but never received quote. When I called I was told to fill out the online form again.
Mack Sails: Submitted online request for quote and Travis at Mack contacted me to go over my sail needs in order to provide a more accurate quote; $4700 which included shipping and new sail hardware. He explained why they only use premium cloth and its benefits. I also liked that the sails were made in the USA (Florida) and not outsourced overseas; it's good to support American jobs. I received my sails two weeks after ordering.
James & Allison
36019 - Allie-May
Cocoa, FL
36019 - Allie-May
Cocoa, FL
Re: mainsail
I was very happy with my Mack main, and I am a little bit of a shape fanatic. It was perfect through all 3 reefs. Considerably better construction than the factory main. The Rolly Tasker offering seemed lighter.
I abandoned the slides and went to a clew strap, which I have been very happy with. This also encouraged me to upgrade the outhaul adjustment, which I am very pleased with.
I abandoned the slides and went to a clew strap, which I have been very happy with. This also encouraged me to upgrade the outhaul adjustment, which I am very pleased with.
Writing full time since 2014.
"Rigging Modern Anchors,"Seaworthy Press, https://www.amazon.com/Rigging-Modern-A ... 1948494078
Book Store. http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2017/ ... store.html
"Rigging Modern Anchors,"Seaworthy Press, https://www.amazon.com/Rigging-Modern-A ... 1948494078
Book Store. http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2017/ ... store.html
Re: mainsail
Drew, what did you do to upgrade the outhaul? I don't like my setup, where the line comes through a hole in the boom and ties off on a cleat on the boom. Since I do not have a winch on the mast, I cannot tension it more than I can pull with my hands, and it is awkward to get to in any event.
I'm thinking about taking my topping lift (which I don't need to adjust much, and doesn't bear a big load) and cleating it off at the mast. Then running the outhaul line through the inside of the boom and through a block which I'll mount with a shackle at the (mast) end of the boom, though a block at the base of the mast, and then back to the cockpit thru the route where the topping lift currently is. That will give me the ability to tension and adjust the outhaul from the cockpit.
I'm thinking about taking my topping lift (which I don't need to adjust much, and doesn't bear a big load) and cleating it off at the mast. Then running the outhaul line through the inside of the boom and through a block which I'll mount with a shackle at the (mast) end of the boom, though a block at the base of the mast, and then back to the cockpit thru the route where the topping lift currently is. That will give me the ability to tension and adjust the outhaul from the cockpit.
Re: mainsail
There was a small cleat on the starboard side of the boom. I removed it and replaced it with a double jammer. One is used for the outhaul, and the other the 3rd reef clew line. Since my winches were on the mast, it was easy to lay the outhaul line a winch.
If I didn't have mast winches I think I would have gone with a 4:1 cascade tackle along the side of the boom and a cam cleat. Otherwise, there is a lot to move the the cockpit. However, I would have set it ups so that I could access it from the aft end of the boom, rather than on-deck. This means a turning block about where I put the clutch. Then use bungees to keep the slack out of the system. Just like a big dingy.
![Image](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j_hf3WHFEoU/WITR-3kinAI/AAAAAAAANOI/e0asjaG3kactNqVaEXsyqreyvuE-mjfZgCLcB/s640/outhaul%2Bjammer.JPG)
http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2017/ ... ammer.html
My F-24 uses a 4:1 cascade bobstay to allow the bowsprit to fold. All Amsteel and low friction rings, and a much higher working load than you need. However, for what you are doing I would use polyester DB and ball bearing blocks; easier to adjust under load.
![Image](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-11kKBJ7L5wk/WlxX-icLEyI/AAAAAAAAOaI/886tIcsH3bcd8JHnNZxCycFZRYYWMCG9QCLcBGAs/s640/bowsprit%2Bbobstay%2Brevision%2Bfinal.jpg)
If I didn't have mast winches I think I would have gone with a 4:1 cascade tackle along the side of the boom and a cam cleat. Otherwise, there is a lot to move the the cockpit. However, I would have set it ups so that I could access it from the aft end of the boom, rather than on-deck. This means a turning block about where I put the clutch. Then use bungees to keep the slack out of the system. Just like a big dingy.
http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2017/ ... ammer.html
My F-24 uses a 4:1 cascade bobstay to allow the bowsprit to fold. All Amsteel and low friction rings, and a much higher working load than you need. However, for what you are doing I would use polyester DB and ball bearing blocks; easier to adjust under load.
![Image](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-11kKBJ7L5wk/WlxX-icLEyI/AAAAAAAAOaI/886tIcsH3bcd8JHnNZxCycFZRYYWMCG9QCLcBGAs/s640/bowsprit%2Bbobstay%2Brevision%2Bfinal.jpg)
Writing full time since 2014.
"Rigging Modern Anchors,"Seaworthy Press, https://www.amazon.com/Rigging-Modern-A ... 1948494078
Book Store. http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2017/ ... store.html
"Rigging Modern Anchors,"Seaworthy Press, https://www.amazon.com/Rigging-Modern-A ... 1948494078
Book Store. http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2017/ ... store.html
Re: mainsail
Drew, this looks like a good solution for the outhaul. I also have the same issue. Do you have a source for reasonably priced jammer cleats? Did you just screw them into the boom?
Jerry
Jerry
Re: mainsail
If you have mast-mounted winches this works really well. Fast and easy to use.
Garhauer has some good prices. Otherwise, just pay up. The one I used was in my "might need" bin.
For a boom the thickness of the PDQ, tapping for bolts is best. The material is thick enough that you don't need a backing plate. My notes say 0.16" thick.
* Coarse thread. Some favor fine thread, figuring there are more full threads. This is wrong, and fine threads are always wrong for aluminum. Established engineering.
* Coat the bolts with Tefgel, Green Grease, or Lanocote to prevent corrosion.
* Get the bolts the right length. You don't want anymore than ~ 1/8-3/16" sticking inside to snag.
* NEVER use sheet metal screws or self tapping screws in a boom or mast that has wires or ropes inside. They will snag and cut.
In thin masts and booms, like beach cats and dinghies, pop rivets are actually stronger (I've done pull-out and shear testing).
Garhauer has some good prices. Otherwise, just pay up. The one I used was in my "might need" bin.
For a boom the thickness of the PDQ, tapping for bolts is best. The material is thick enough that you don't need a backing plate. My notes say 0.16" thick.
* Coarse thread. Some favor fine thread, figuring there are more full threads. This is wrong, and fine threads are always wrong for aluminum. Established engineering.
* Coat the bolts with Tefgel, Green Grease, or Lanocote to prevent corrosion.
* Get the bolts the right length. You don't want anymore than ~ 1/8-3/16" sticking inside to snag.
* NEVER use sheet metal screws or self tapping screws in a boom or mast that has wires or ropes inside. They will snag and cut.
In thin masts and booms, like beach cats and dinghies, pop rivets are actually stronger (I've done pull-out and shear testing).
Writing full time since 2014.
"Rigging Modern Anchors,"Seaworthy Press, https://www.amazon.com/Rigging-Modern-A ... 1948494078
Book Store. http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2017/ ... store.html
"Rigging Modern Anchors,"Seaworthy Press, https://www.amazon.com/Rigging-Modern-A ... 1948494078
Book Store. http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2017/ ... store.html