sail drive removal

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Bob
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sail drive removal

Post by Bob »

OK, next on the list for winter projects is to replace the seals on my saildrives. The port side is pretty easy to work on but the starboard doesn't look like fun. I run about 200# so when I squeeze myself into the compartment it is quite a sight! Does anyone have any hard earned tips for lifting and separating the the drive from the engine? I did replace forward engine mounts just by levering and blocking the front of the engine but I did not have to move it around. I'm thinking that I can lever the front of the engine and block it then jack the saildrive from outside the boat, support the rear of the engine with blocking then split the pieces. Hopefully there will be enough of a hull opening to separate the drive from the engine.
When I had the bottom done 2 years ago the yard fabricated fiberglass replacements for the rubber boots saying that they had done this before with better results than glueing the rubber boots to the hull. I'm all for inovation so I went along with the idea. Over the past 2 years I've wondered about my decision. My first look as the boat came out was that all was well. I will have to get a better look after the yard pressure washes the boat and when I begin dis-assembly. The bottom was remarkably clean for 2 years in the water so I'm going to use Trinidad again when I redo the bottom.
Bob Johnson
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Loki
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Re: sail drive removal

Post by Loki »

Bob wrote:OK, next on the list for winter projects is to replace the seals on my saildrives.
Please take pictures! I think I might be doing this in a year or two, eventually all the LRC's will need this, I assume.

(I sympathize with your issue with the hatch, I have to grease up to "go down the hole"!
Jeff Morris, Loki 36072
Bob
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Re: sail drive removal

Post by Bob »

I will document the project as it progresses.
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philiprmcgovern
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Re: sail drive removal

Post by philiprmcgovern »

This does NOT sound like a fun project at all. My question is....how will I know when it's time to replace the saildrive seals? What are the symptoms? Thanks.

Phil McGovern
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Bob
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Re: sail drive removal

Post by Bob »

Well in my case it was being just numb. I had an occasional vibration on the stbd engine which seemed to correct itself----until one fateful day heading north on the ICW when it really vibrated. I hired a diver to check things out and he popped up and said I was missing a blade. Well I was leaving Brunswick, GA in a few days so I had a set next day aired in. Blades were $285 plus $80 is shipping. The diver was $50. I headed out the next morning and thought I still had a slight vibration but figured it was just me. A little later I decided it was really there so I shut the engine down and made it to Beaufort, SC and hired another diver who discovered the first diver had installed the blades one tooth out of sync so it was not opening properly. He also delivered the news that the port set were marginal. Another call to the supplier bought the last set in the country. I had that set put on in Beaufort, NC. So here is what happened. The teeth that gears the blades were chewed up by electrolysis as were the blades. When I threw one blade the engine jumped in it's mounts and sheared the band on the upper seal. There is only about 15 mm clearance between the bell housing and the saildrive hull flange. I figured easy repair so I ordered the band thinking I'd just put it on. Wrong! It is one piece and after buying the shop manuals for both the saildrive and the engine I see the only way to repair the seal is to remove the unit and put it on the bench. So then I ordered the two seals as well as the "O" rings and seals for the lower output shaft figuring the vibration may have caused problems. Another $500 to fill the hole in the water. Now onto the prop hubs. The port had zincs on the hub but the holes were stripped so I have to drill and tap a new set. The stbd had no provisions for hub zincs but the PO had a spare hub that has this feature so I will reinstall this one. Today I winterized the water system and AC unit using 8 gallons of anti freeze. Tomorrow I begin the saildrive removal. I studied it today as I forgot to pack some beer. It appears that if I lay a bar across the access hatch all the way forward I will be over the balance point. I have a 1/2 ton riggers hoist that should fit; of course that leaves just one problem. Me getting in the hatch. If I don't end up spending tomorrow night stuck in the engine room I'll give an update.
Bob Johnson
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chicagocat
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Re: sail drive removal

Post by chicagocat »

Guys,

I'm probably going to have the seals replaced on the drives for my 1996 LRC this winter. I don't trust myself to do it, so I'll bring someone in to do it. I'd love to see Bob's pictures, and I'll try to take some pics when mine get done as well.

In terms of symptoms, etc: What I'm seeing is some water in the starboard engine room (probably 2 gallons a month). I'm also getting a smaller amount on the port side. I'm not absolutely certain it's coming in through the seal, but I think it is. I used to think it was coming in through the drainage hole at the rear of the engine room that empties sort of below the dinghy davits. At least on my boat, that hole is a fair bit lower on the starboard side than on port. I think in choppy water you could get water in the engine room through that hole. Anyway, though, I still think that's not the source of the water I have, and I think after 12 years it's certainly time to change the seals.

Brendan
PDQ 36052 - 1996 LRC - "Anne Z" - Chicago
and 2001 PDQ 36 Classic (Tall Rig)- "Cat Tales" - Punta Gorda, FL
Bob
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Re: sail drive removal

Post by Bob »

Phase one is complete. The saildrive is out. It took about 3 hrs to do an was not as hard as I thought it would be. The photos pretty much show how I rigged the tackle. I disconnected the shift linkage, removed the raw water cooling hoses and vent loop, disconnected the seal sensor plug and unbolted the forward motor mounts from the bed. I did this so that I would not have to re-level the engine and I didn't know how much lift I would be able to accomplish. To remove the drive I sat on the engine and used a 2' extension on my ratchet for the drive flange bolts. The only two that I could not get were under the bell housing which required a box wrench. I removed half of the bell housing bolts and broke free the remaining ones. Next was rigging the hoist and sliding the engine forward. I put about 6-7" of blocking under the oil pan to support the engine. I only moved it forward about 2". The drive is about 70# so once the bolts were removed I could lift it out. You do have to angle it back to have the prop spline clear the hull hole. The oil drain plug has so far refused to budge. I've tried a hand impact wrench but the bit is small for the screw slot so I guess I'll buy a big Craftsman screwdriver and put an adjustable wrench on it. I did try a drag link socket on it but the tip is too wide. McMaster Carr has a bit that is just right (5610A5) for $1.30 but it would probably cost $10 for shipping. The fiberglass plate that took the place of the rubber hull boot worked fine.There was only a couple of small mussel spat growing. I think I will modify the plate and use it as a retaining ring for the rubber boot. My first look at the seals left me with the impression that they could be reused. I'm guessing they may never have been changed but they are still flexible with no cracking.
Attachments
Hoist arrangement
Hoist arrangement
Hoist_1.jpg (16.12 KiB) Viewed 13519 times
Drive removed
Drive removed
Drive copy.jpg (17.89 KiB) Viewed 13512 times
Ready to lift
Ready to lift
Engine_1.JPG (26.89 KiB) Viewed 13512 times
Bob Johnson
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Re: sail drive removal

Post by Bob »

chicagocat wrote:Guys,



In terms of symptoms, etc: What I'm seeing is some water in the starboard engine room (probably 2 gallons a month). I'm also getting a smaller amount on the port side. I'm not absolutely certain it's coming in through the seal, but I think it is.

Brendan
If the seal was leaking you would get an alarm. The probe is fail safe in that it is just 2 pins waiting to be submerged in water. Look at the photo of my engine in the previous post. You will notice some rust on the injectors. This is from water leaking in around the cheap Perko fitting. I've replaced mine with a new one but it still leaks although not as much. Also check your gasket on the hatch as well as the adjustment of the latch. In heavy rain water cascades off the cabin onto the hatch and if the scupper drain is not clear the trough will fill and pour into the engine compartment. If you are referring to the oval scupper near the rudder connecting linkage I'd be really concerned if that opened into the engine room in any way.
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Re: sail drive removal

Post by chicagocat »

Hey Bob,
The top diaphragm on the seal of my starboard saildrive has unseated itself, so I think I need to pull the saildrive. The pictures you posted are no longer available. I'm wondering if you still have them and could upload them, along with any other info you think might be valuable. I'm going to have my mechanic do it I think, but any estimates of time and parts etc would also be helpful.

Thanks again,
Brendan
PDQ 36052 - 1996 LRC - "Anne Z" - Chicago
and 2001 PDQ 36 Classic (Tall Rig)- "Cat Tales" - Punta Gorda, FL
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