Job Report: Rebedding wraparound windows
Posted: Mon May 20, 2013 2:21 pm
OK, so I thought ahead enough to document my adventures this past weekend. The wraparound acrylic windows were developing a couple slow leaks. Instead of (once again) siliconing the edges, I decided to rebed them. It's a messy and nasty job, but not complex. The starboard 3 windows took 2 people 4 hours, including lunch.
First, you're going to want to replace the nylon washers, which are probably deteriorating. I found exact replacements at Amazon.
Here's the link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q9 ... UTF8&psc=1
About $9 for a pack of 100.
Then you're going to need a sh*t ton of Sikaflex. It has to go on very thick. You'll use 2-3 tubes per window. The best price I could find was also Amazon at $17 a tube. You want Sikaflex 295 UV in Black. It's specially made for acrylic and polycarbonate. You need black, because otherwise you'll see it through the windows.
Next, remove the screws from the windows and slowly use knives, paint scalers, etc. to loosen all edges from the old Sikaflex. This is the hardest part of the job and will take at least 20 minutes per window. If you try to pull a window off without cutting the old Sikaflex, you can easily crack it. My first pic shows a paint scraper being used to loosen the old sikaflex.
Eventually you'll be able to get the window off. Then you're left with my 2nd pic, a mess of old sikaflex. The sikaflex has button-size standoffs embedded in it to hold the window a fraction of an inch off the fiberglass. You need to dig those out to reuse later.
Then scrape off all the old sikaflex. See picture 3. Also, scrape the sikaflex off the windows and wash them with soap and water and let them dry.
Next, apply the new Sikaflex very liberally. Then use a putty knife to "butter" it so that no white fiberglass can be seen. It should be maybe 1/4" thick. Make sure to put the standoffs in the sikaflex to hold the window slightly off the fiberglass.
Then position the old window and move it slightly until you've found the exact spot where the old screw holes are.
Next, slowly tighten the screws with the new nylon washers using a round-robin pattern (don't just tighten them in order). The sikaflex will squirt of the sides of the window, both inside and outside the boat. Use dry paper towel (have at least a dozen rolls ready) to wipe it up. You can use solvent on the plastic window frame, but don't use solvent on the windows themselves, as it will cause hazing. Just use dry paper towel and keep working at it.
Any other ideas or suggestions, please let me know.
First, you're going to want to replace the nylon washers, which are probably deteriorating. I found exact replacements at Amazon.
Here's the link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q9 ... UTF8&psc=1
About $9 for a pack of 100.
Then you're going to need a sh*t ton of Sikaflex. It has to go on very thick. You'll use 2-3 tubes per window. The best price I could find was also Amazon at $17 a tube. You want Sikaflex 295 UV in Black. It's specially made for acrylic and polycarbonate. You need black, because otherwise you'll see it through the windows.
Next, remove the screws from the windows and slowly use knives, paint scalers, etc. to loosen all edges from the old Sikaflex. This is the hardest part of the job and will take at least 20 minutes per window. If you try to pull a window off without cutting the old Sikaflex, you can easily crack it. My first pic shows a paint scraper being used to loosen the old sikaflex.
Eventually you'll be able to get the window off. Then you're left with my 2nd pic, a mess of old sikaflex. The sikaflex has button-size standoffs embedded in it to hold the window a fraction of an inch off the fiberglass. You need to dig those out to reuse later.
Then scrape off all the old sikaflex. See picture 3. Also, scrape the sikaflex off the windows and wash them with soap and water and let them dry.
Next, apply the new Sikaflex very liberally. Then use a putty knife to "butter" it so that no white fiberglass can be seen. It should be maybe 1/4" thick. Make sure to put the standoffs in the sikaflex to hold the window slightly off the fiberglass.
Then position the old window and move it slightly until you've found the exact spot where the old screw holes are.
Next, slowly tighten the screws with the new nylon washers using a round-robin pattern (don't just tighten them in order). The sikaflex will squirt of the sides of the window, both inside and outside the boat. Use dry paper towel (have at least a dozen rolls ready) to wipe it up. You can use solvent on the plastic window frame, but don't use solvent on the windows themselves, as it will cause hazing. Just use dry paper towel and keep working at it.
Any other ideas or suggestions, please let me know.