Sliding Door Removal For Maintenance

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NautiBits
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Sliding Door Removal For Maintenance

Post by NautiBits »

I would like to remove the sliding door to perform needed maintenance. One roller appears to be seized. It is otherwise extremely funky in all the channels. According to the schematics posted on PDQ36.com, the retainer channel on the cockpit side of the sill plate is designed to be easily removed to facilitate maintenance. However, this boat has the battery box inboard of the helm between the sliding door sill plate and the removable cockpit floor/fuel tank cover. There is about a half inch gap between the retainer channel and the raised lip of the battery box (battery compartment cover removed). I solved the riddle of removing the three (of five) countersunk (8-32 half inch long) screws, that hold the retainer channel on the sill, in that gap between the battery box and sill. I did this by cutting a #2 cross-point bit down to a nub that barely had enough surface to allow a 1/4 inch box wrench to grab it. I also held the bit in place with a large flat tip screwdriver. The screwdriver allows you to maintain pressure on the bit as the distance slowly decreases as the screw comes out. So, the screws are removed. I will replace those 3 pesky csink screws with hex head versions with washer (all ss), that will also barely fit, but be more easily removed with just the box wrench.

The problem: the retainer channel still will not come out. It is free of the sill plate. It can be moved around freely, just not enough to get it out. I am concerned about twisting it, which may allow removal, but may also permanently set a twist in the channel, which would interfere with the sliding door. Putting it back in place would be at least as much fun. I've considered cutting it out close to the batt box. That would leave two screws in the opening and three behind the batt box. I don't think the retainer channel is part of the door's structural integrity (at least not where cutting it into two pieces would make much of a difference). I've considered cutting out the whole batt box and sliding it the half inch toward the stern that would allow easier removal of the retainer plate and not interfere with the cockpit floor/fuel tank access. I don't really want that to be my first FRP project though. I've considered removing the whole door. Is it 5200d into the bulkhead?

Any ideas are welcome.

Thanks,

Joe Mc
Joe & Deb
s/v Cat's Meow
2000 Classic 36086
NautiBits
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Re: Sliding Door Removal For Maintenance

Post by NautiBits »

Bumpage!

I've seen the 'slather it in slippery goo' posts. I'd prefer to take it apart, clean it, and put it back together again for many years of use.

Yo, engineers(and other crafty tinkerers)!! Come on, help a brother out!

I think my idea of carefully cutting the retainer channel in about half (I would finish it neatly after removal) makes the most sense going forward.

Feedback!! Opinions are permissible.

Thanks,

Joe Mc
Joe & Deb
s/v Cat's Meow
2000 Classic 36086
James Power
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Re: Sliding Door Removal For Maintenance

Post by James Power »

Hey Joe,

With all the screws out of the track cover plate it should pop off. Sometimes I have to apply a little persuasion, prying or a tap at one end of the plate. Once you get some movement the rest comes quick. To remove the door, lift and swing the bottom out, taking care as it has some weight. A very helpfull tool for removing hard to get at fasteners is a rachet made by Husky ( # 165 152 or #150 601 ) from Home Depot. There is no harm in leaving a screw or two out of the plate behind the battery box if necessary. Applying anti sieze to the fasteners will help with future removal.

Hope this helps

James
NautiBits
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Re: Sliding Door Removal For Maintenance

Post by NautiBits »

Thanks James.

Okay, the retainer channel did require a bit of persuasion (and WD-40) to free it from the sill plate channel. It does move around freely. It appears that the retainer channel is about a one inch 'U' channel. There is about a half inch of space between the raised lip of the battery box and the retainer channel. So, about a half inch of the retainer channel is still covered by the sill channel. I think I would have to get a pretty stout twist on the retainer channel in order to get it out from under the sill channel. The retainer channel by the battery box would have to spread apart some amount in order for this to work. Is this what you had in mind, James?

I googled the ratchet at HomeDepot. It didn't show. Could you post a link?

Does the anti-sieze provide any dissimilar metal corrosion protection?

Thanks again for the feedback.

Joe Mc
Joe & Deb
s/v Cat's Meow
2000 Classic 36086
James Power
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Re: Sliding Door Removal For Maintenance

Post by James Power »

Hey Joe,

How about a picture of the track and battery box area for clarification.

Try looking thru the Depot web page under Husky rachet, then 1/4" rachet and bit set - 8 piece. The numbers I gave were on 2 diffrent packages. Depot has it as model # 76024, internet catalogue # 901320, store SKU # 1000150601. There is probably a password and secret handshake also required....

Yes, anti sieze helps with dissimilar metal issues. Tef-Gel is a great product for this. ( 1800-433-2628 or West Marine )

James
NautiBits
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Re: Sliding Door Removal For Maintenance

Post by NautiBits »

Thanks James,

Here are the pix,

Joe Mc
Two 'easy' screws to remove.
Two 'easy' screws to remove.
Enticingly easy, but not.
Enticingly easy, but not.
Not so easy, but screws removed.
Not so easy, but screws removed.
Joe & Deb
s/v Cat's Meow
2000 Classic 36086
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