Does anyone know what the expected lifespan of the OEM flexible solar panels is (and durability)? Ours seem to still output a charge, though not much. The wires are in pretty rough shape from UV and I'm surprised the mast base connector works at all. Reason I'm asking is that these are nice and lightweight and will probably work well on top of the new "hard top" bimini. With the possibility of going to a mooring next season I'd like to keep any exisitng means for solar charging as an option but don't want to put a lot of effort into moving them only to have them fail after or during the remount. Pretty amazing that they are still working after 20 years...
Will appreciate any input...
Lifespan of original flex solar panels
- maxicrom
- admiral
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Lifespan of original flex solar panels
Mike & Linda
S/V II the Max
S/V II the Max
Re: Lifespan of original flex solar panels
I would put an ammeter on them when the batteries are drawn down to about 12V and see. You really cannot tell anything from a panel voltage. I suspect they are down to less than 40% and probably down to less than 1/4 of what a rigid panel would do.
Look at new rigid panels in terms of watts per square foot and watts per $$; they are FAR more efficient than flexible panels, which make no sense unless you can't figure out how to mount rigid panels, which is simple. Given how far the prices have fallen, I think you would be far smarter with all new... and I'm an extreme tight wad. I would also get rid of any connector; the power loss due to resistance is simply a pointless risk. Better to wire straight from the solar panel box (rigid panels have nice terminal strips) to the charge controller. Remember, while on most circuits you are measuring the drop from 13v to 0v; on a panel you are worried about the drop from 13v to 14v (the only voltage that counts is that above the battery's).
And while I was at it I would probably pitch the old shunting controller and get a new PPT controller that will be perhaps 20% more efficient.
http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2011/ ... anels.html
I have 2 x 85w panels; more than enough for a mooring, but for cruising it is just enough and 50-100% more would really be much better. I did not because I enjoy lounging on the hard top.
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Just my thoughts.
Look at new rigid panels in terms of watts per square foot and watts per $$; they are FAR more efficient than flexible panels, which make no sense unless you can't figure out how to mount rigid panels, which is simple. Given how far the prices have fallen, I think you would be far smarter with all new... and I'm an extreme tight wad. I would also get rid of any connector; the power loss due to resistance is simply a pointless risk. Better to wire straight from the solar panel box (rigid panels have nice terminal strips) to the charge controller. Remember, while on most circuits you are measuring the drop from 13v to 0v; on a panel you are worried about the drop from 13v to 14v (the only voltage that counts is that above the battery's).
And while I was at it I would probably pitch the old shunting controller and get a new PPT controller that will be perhaps 20% more efficient.
http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2011/ ... anels.html
I have 2 x 85w panels; more than enough for a mooring, but for cruising it is just enough and 50-100% more would really be much better. I did not because I enjoy lounging on the hard top.
----
Just my thoughts.
Writing full time since 2014.
"Rigging Modern Anchors,"Seaworthy Press, https://www.amazon.com/Rigging-Modern-A ... 1948494078
Book Store. http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2017/ ... store.html
"Rigging Modern Anchors,"Seaworthy Press, https://www.amazon.com/Rigging-Modern-A ... 1948494078
Book Store. http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2017/ ... store.html