PDQ OWNERS FORUM

New Owner trying to get kinks out of boat

Thank you in advance for any feedback and information.

1. Water dripping in cabin on starboard side outboard wall near door/bulkhead to bedroom after washing boat and rain.
Anyone have any ideas of where or how to locate leak and/or heard of similar leaking issues in this area?

2. Size of railing? 7/8, 1.0 or 1.25 inch railing? (boat far away, so cant check)

3. My hot water heater output line burst and couldn't find a 1/2 size line to replace.
(could only find the 1/4 size faucet supply line with a 1/2" connector, but need the larger 1/2 line)
Does anyone know where to find the exact repalcement hose? ( approx 18-20")

4. Anyone know what may be causing a leak in the starboard bow locker ( noticed water pooling in small area against bulkhead and foul oder)?
Is holding tank in that area and be due to a full holding tank- overflowing?
( Its in a calm slip and my full tank light is not on, so can I assume tank is not full)
5 Replacing my original 5kw Northern Lights genset with a new one .
Does anyone know if the original genset can be reomved through hatch in one piece or is it necessary to disassemble and pull out and put new one back in pieces? ( new one is same model and similar size)

5. Sterring and throttles still very stiff- Anyone ever have similar issues with either?

Thank you for your time:

2004 PDQ34
MV51
David

hi,

i THINK railing is 1"{.

not sure if home depot has the exact size, they might. if not defender does by the foot.

don't trust the guage. on ours, #23, you can pull snder out to check fullness. also, y-valve can leak.

what's wrong with genset? wholesale replace sounds radical.

steering stiffness could be air in lines but could also be rudder binding. you'll need to narrow down. throttles sound like cables might need lube.

David,

I get stiff steering if the hydraulic fluid is a little low. Fill from the upper helm only with the autopilot off. Stiff steering at higher speed can be due to misaligned rudders. I assume you were instructed how to align them.

If you have a leak of waste water in the starboard locker, it should be obvious from color and odor. Yes, the holding tank is directly fwd of the bulkhead and should be evident with the inspection port.

Good luck with everything.

David,

1. Good luck on the water leak... the only thing I can think of is to check inside the STBD locker on the Flybridge (close to where the ice chest is located) to see if somehow water is getting into the vertical cable channel that goes straight down from the flybridge to the lower helm.

2. The railings are 1.0".

4. It helps to change the butt connectors on the slender wires on the round holding tank hatch cover that connect to the gauges inside the tank with quick disconnects so you can more easily check & clean the holding tank.

3. The lines that look like 1/2" Pex tubing are actually 15 milimeter. Not available anywhere I could find except marine supply. I got fittings at Defender, they are made by Whale.

As far as leaks, I found one in the salon ceiling near the stbd window where a ceiling trim screw had penetrated into a flybridge storage locker right in the channel the water drains through.

The bow locker could be leaking at the vent in the hatch.

Good luck,

Rafe

Re leakage on starboard side:
“1. Water dripping in cabin on starboard side outboard wall near door/bulkhead to bedroom after washing boat and rain.
Anyone have any ideas of where or how to locate leak and/or heard of similar leaking issues in this area?”

I had leakage same area (2001 MV32), traced it to poor sealing on external 120v power inlets.

Railing confirmed as 1”.

Also be aware (at least on mine) the blue and red water lines are 15mm, manufactured by Whale (available at West Marine and other vendors).

THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH FOR THE HELPFUL INFORMATION!
Hopefully soon, with some time cruising on the boat, I can also contribute some information to others as well.

Sincerely,
David

Regarding the generator. Our generator developed a rust hole in the bottom of the oil pan which required complete removal from the boat to replace the pan. It does fit through the hatch.

Alan

on leaking on the stbd side near cabin door: we had same thing. turned out to be leaks from both shorepower plate and the coax plate. shore power was easy just remove the plate, clean gasket, silicone, and tighten. coax was harder. finally made an insert out of a 2" pvc cap. i cut so just had the cup. i drilled for the cable then marinetex it to the plate. no more leaks.

Another question:
Does anyone know the make/model/diminsions of the 2 rear window hatch screens or where I can find repalcements?
Thank you
David

hi,

do you need replacements or just rescreening? ours are bowmars, 20-3/4" X 15-3/4". if you just need screening, it's not hard. you can get screening at most hardware stores. pull the rubber spline out. lay the new screen over the frame. insert the spline in the groove to trap screen. trim excess screen. only tricky part is where the frame is joined since there is no spline. just notch the screen to butt to the joiner.

Duetto,
Thank you for the reply concerning my rear window screens.
We are missing the entire frame.
Thank you for the size diminsions, I will see about ordering online.
Regards,
David

Regarding the leak in the starboard cabin, we had the following three culprits each contributing their share-
1) It could be leaking through the horizontal joints of the parts that make up the lower door assembly for the main hatch. Clean the joint between aluminum frame where it meets the fiberglass of the house and the joint between the immovable aluminum parts for the lower assembly, then lay in a good bead of silicone sealant along both joints. Make sure the weep holes in the aluminum frame are clear.
2) It could be coming in the vertical edge on the starboard side of the main hatch. Make sure the rubber flange on the movable hatch door is intact.
3) The hand railings to the fly bridge are bolted through the deck at the stern. To see if that's where your leak is, look for discoloration on the wall of the starboard cabin on the side where the A/C unit lives. You can easily remove the ceiling panel to gain access to the starboard-most railing bolt. Have someone run a stream of water on the deck where the railing bolts through the deck to see if that's the culprit. If so, loosen the bolt from inside the cabin which will allow you to install your sealant of choice from above. Butyl tape worked for me. Then, snug it back down.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

hi,

upon further review...dimensions i quoted before on screen frames were for the side facing in. the larger frame facing out are 21-1/8 x 16-1/8. not sure what bomar will use.

Thank you all for the good feedback and info.
David