Yamahas New 9.9's

Post here for issues with outboard engines (i.e Yamaha 9.9) on PDQ yachts
Tanah-Keeta
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Post by Tanah-Keeta »

Yes.. the cockpits do vary. I do not know which blocks of hull numbers are the same though.
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Latis (32028)
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Outboard Engines

Post by Latis (32028) »

After agonizing on a solution and faced with all the challenges you guys have talked about, I'm going nuts and getting the nacel enlarged on our 32 to accomodate new 9.9 Hondas (with autotilt). I'll let you know how it goes as it is still work in progress (long story why I started this project in the prime of sailing season!) - the biggest changes have been purely cosmetic - 1) the nacel locker will be about 2 inches higher than before - width about the same (some triming around the base) 2) the flaring cone underneath that leads to the mount needs to be built out a bit to accomdate the tilt mechanism (which sits a bit lower) 3) and to the latter - I'm reinforcing all of that mount area as well since I was starting to develop a few cracks - so figured why not since we've got all that cutting and glass work going.
So far so good. I'll keep you guys posted if anyone is interested.
Living on the edge!
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Post by Marc Gershel »

Just curious, Does the Honda 9.9 have the same 3:1 gear reduction & large prop that makes the Yamaha 9.9 such a good fit.
I picked up a '03 Yamaha with 10 hrs. on Ebay for $1600 as "insurance"
for when I have to replace my old (1800 hr) ones.

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Post by Latis (32028) »

Nope - not the same - Gear ratio is 2.33:1
Prop is a 4 Blade Aluminum 10 x 6 1/2 inches
and it probably weighs a bit more at 117lbs with the electrice tilt ...
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Re: Outboard Engines

Post by Aquila 32/31 »

Latis (32028) wrote............So far so good. I'll keep you guys posted if anyone is interested.


Please do Latis, and if you can take pictures as work progresses that would help tremendously.
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Post by Kokomo »

Our Hull #80 is different from older models, but I don't know when the change took place. The older lids to the engine are generally flat like the cover to a box. Our lid wraps down from the top about 10 inches (estimated) allowing some access from the side. I imagine this could be to our advantage when retro-fitting the newer engines.
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Ed Ellis
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Post by Ed Ellis »

Latis,

Could you please provide an update on the installation of your new engines? Thanks, Ed
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Post by Kokomo »

As a reminder, while in Nassau last year, I visited the Yamaha dealer (Harbourside Marine). They do have (what appears to be) the old style 9.9's that are still sold internationally. There is a 6 month lead time on the order and I didn't get a price since I'm still good for a year or more. For info, e-mail Nicolas Rademaker at Yamaha1@coralwave.com This may be a way to make that Bahamas cruise even more attractive.

Please let me know how you make out if you explore this option. I'm at Kokomo36@juno.com
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Post by Latis (32028) »

Ed Ellis wrote:Latis,

Could you please provide an update on the installation of your new engines? Thanks, Ed
My refit project was finally complete as of 2 weeks ago. Got her back in the water to test it out and wrap up the season. To be honest this was not a cheap solution :shock: - but have to say very happy with the results. Had the cockpit completely repainted and got separate lockers for engine and batteries now on each side. Can't even tell there were changes made. The autotilt is a gem and performance is awesome - got caught in one of these fun little cold fronts with 25 knots on the nose and she pushed 5.5 knots (easily get 7 knots in normal conditions). I'll try and get a few pix to send out. I'm glad I did it! Now just have to pay off the loan :(
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Post by Cat Tales »

I recently repowered with the new model 9.9's. The conversion was not difficult; had to trim some minimal fiberglass from the lower part of the nacelle (1/4 - 1/2 inch). The hardest part was figuring out the engine lock, since it is positioned on the lower side instead of in front like the older model. I created a simple rope pull, which come into the cockpit next to the engine lifting line. If I want, I can unlock, raise, lower & lock the engine without ever opening the nacelle lid. I have some pictures, (which need to be redone), that will show the lock/unlock pull system & where I had to cut. The main benefit was the cost difference - my new engines were $2300 each. The conversion cost was insignificant ($20 approx.). My only real cost was time shaving the nacelle & figuring out how to create the new unlock system.
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Ed Ellis
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Post by Ed Ellis »

Chris,

Where did you purchase the engines?

Ed
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Post by next exit »

Chris, there has been comment about attaching the remote controls being a problem. How did you make out with this?
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Post by next exit »

Just wondering if any member is close enough to the powers that be at PDQ to ask if they could come up with a retro-fit plan for the new style 9.9's both for the new and old style hatches.

So we do not have to reinvent the wheel as old motors die off.
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Cat Tales
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Post by Cat Tales »

The remote control conversion was done by the Yamaha dealer. Cost for the parts are about $60 dollars and labor is .5 hour. In addition, our boats required a slight modification of the wiring harness because of the oil warning light and key start. Very simple, because the wiring is the same as the old engines. Except the new engines have a "Start" button and "Oil" light in front of the engine. The slight modification required was only disconnecting the "Start" & "Oil" button wires and installing the appropriate male or female connector. I have no former training in this area, but I was able to make the connections look like Yamaha built the motor like this from the factory. I also designed it so that I can take off these connections and reconvert the motor to it's original design without any signs of change. It was truly simple.

If you have the new hatch design, the new style engine (T9.9EXH2) will fit through the opening and sit in the well. For the older hatches, I don't think they will fit without some cutting. The engines' widest part is the housing. Our new engines fit with the housing on, but with the housing off you save approx. one inch in width. When the engines are in the well, the nacelle must be shave approx 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch in the rear and lower-mid section where the engines rubs on the nacelle.

The only other modification was to the throttle control box. The new engines push/pull throttle is the reverse of the old engines. Again, a simple conversion within the control box.

Those are the only modifications required for the new engines.
Chris & Kelly Haretos
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Post by Tanah-Keeta »

Do you have sufficient access to change oil and to get at the carb for cleaning?
Ron McDaniel
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