New Engine purchase

[carib sailor]

Hi Folks

I am preparing to order two new Yamaha 9.9's (you know, the ones that actually fit the boat!) I have an older (1992) 36.

I have some questions:

Does anyone know how long the starboard and port throttle/shifter cables and wiring harnesses need to be? I am not sure what length to order and thought I would ask. Obviously the port side is longer than the starboard side.

Also, does anyone know how the electric tilt mechanism is controlled? Will I need to add two rocker switches somewhere or are they a part of the new key switches?

Anyone who has been there and done that and can answer these questions would be most helpful.

Thanks

[Page 83]

I used a 14' and a 16' cable, (like you, I do not have pulleys under the helm for the steering cables) but I decided to get a new(er) throttle set with the trim switches built in. This isn't necessary, you could use separate switches. There are trim switches on the engines themselves, too. I used my old key panels which required a lot of trouble shooting; the wires don't match. I also replaced the hour meters with digital readouts that give RPM while running. Other PDQ owners reported problems with these, but I talked to an engineer at the manufacturer who stressed a couple of tricks to make them work right. I use equal lengths of a coax (shield grounded to engine; the inner insulation just fits the slot in the tachs) and equal wraps on the plug wires. These wires must not get close to A/C.

The power trim engines come with an engine mount plate that hangs down almost to the waterline, and drags in the water under way. If you come up with a mold for a fairing to reduce the splashing, let me know!

[carib sailor]

Thanks for the feedback.

Do you feel that corrosion or water ingress will pose a problem with the engine mount plate that hanging down almost to the waterline? I presume that what you are mentioning is the actual mechanical portion of the mount, not the motor that tilts the engine? I am not 100% sure what part is dragging in the water but wonder if it will become a maintenance issue?

I guess I figure the whole lower unit drags in the water and the paint stays on so if the mounting bracket is all that is getting wet it's not a big deal other than drag added of course.

Can you clarify or post a pic or two?

Again, thank you so much for the feedback!

[Page 83]

Its only the big plate thats dragging in the water, but its there all the time, while the rest of the engine is retracted most of the time. The splashing fills up the nacelles. It keeps everything else in the "engine rooms" wet, but I see no problems yet. I'm going to plumb fresh water somewhere convenient and get into the habit of rinsing everything off at night.

[36041]

The bottom of the engine plate on our boat is about 2 inches above the water, but our boat might be loaded a little lighter than some. To avoid the splashing up into the engine bay, I made fiberglass deflectors that bolt to the bottom of the original nacelle. To make the part, I just duct taped some cardboard into a triangle form (more like a wedge of cheese), covered it with wax paper and then laid up a couple of layers of fiberglass. The whole project took less than a day to do though we have not tried the pieces out in the water yet, so I cannot say how much the deflectors will help.

On our next trip to the boat I can take some pictures if anyone is interested.

Tom
36041
http://www.tendervittles.net

[Bacchagato]

Question for anyone... we just installed new T9.9s in Bacchagato, using new Yamaha control cables and the new 10-pin wiring harnesses. The electrical wiring was basically plug-in with the Yamaha 704 pigtail adapter to connect to the old key switches, tachs and hour meters. Using the existing Morse/Teleflex binnacle, the shift cables also dropped right into place (although not a fair lead like before). However, I cannot get the throttle cable to mate to the engine... at the minimum setting, its at full throttle. It won't drop below 5000rpm, which makes for a rough break-in period.
Does anyone know if the factory Morse/Teleflex binnacle is compatible with the new engine control cables? Or do we have to buy a new Yamaha binnacle to get the throttle cables to line up properly?
Any assistance or suggestions welcome, thanks!
Morgan & Bonnie, stuck in Gasparilla Marina

[36041]

When I put the new Yamahas in, I used the original engine control unit that came with our boat, but I did have to change the hole that the cable hookup inside the control was clipped into, but once we moved the attachment point, we were able to adjust both end fittings on the throttle cable to get full range of motion on the accelerator.

No other special pieces were needed when we did it.

Goodluck,
Tom
36041
www.tendervittles.net

[Bacchagato]

When all else fails, read the instructions. I should get that tattooed on my forehead, I think.
The 2004 9.9s had Pull-Pull cables (pull for forward, pull for throttle). The 2009s are a Pull-Push setup. If you have the old Morse/Teleflex control box, disassemble the binnacle, rotate throttle cams 180 degrees, and reassemble. The new Yamaha binnacle would have been an easier install, but requires more modifications to the boat (and another $500), so it will have to wait.

[Page 83]

I found a used 704 binnacle on Ebay with trim switches built in for $250. Now I have a (mostly complete) set of spare parts. Anybody want a box of binnacle crap?