PDQ OWNERS FORUM

Is there an easy way to disable this on the new Yamaha 9.9s, since the rope holds it up? The down lock is nice, but the up lock holds it so high at can jam in the well and become a bear to release. My alternative is to cut away some glass, which would be easy enough. I'm also in fear of what will happen when the lock mechanism eventually corrodes, which I feel certain it will. Disabling both would be acceptable.

I figure this is a project for when I haul to paint the bottom in a year.

Assuming you find a way to disable it, don't forget to put something in to hold it down. Otherwise, in reverse the motor will try to climb right out of the well.

Keep the lock well lubricated or it might break off like mine did.

Yes, of course. I have a seat belt that hold the engines down. I disabled the lock on my last engines because towards the end it had corroded and become inoperable.

Hi, Do you have a pic of your seat belt hold-down? I use a 1" strap with a ratchet lock, but your idea sounds simpler.
Marc

No, not an actual seat belt, just that sort of material with an adjustable buckle. But there is a picture here:

http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2012/ ... s-and.html

Consider changing the tilt angle of the motor at the transom before cutting the hull. Build shim plate wedges to fit the transom inside and outside. Picture a tapered plate 3/8" tick at the top and 1/16" at the bottom. as wide as the mounting face of the engines, made of successive layers of glass and epoxy resin. Maintain a smooth surface on both sides of the shim by clamping it between two hard surfaces to set up. I would use a couple of aluminum plates for that, covered with plastic wrap or liberally painted with mold release.
I would use epoxy and compress the layup to achieve the hardest cure possible. The aluminum plates would help distribute the heat evenly thru the layup, and you would end up with a very high glass to resin ratio. You could probably shave with the results!

Page 83 wrote:Consider changing the tilt angle of the motor at the transom before cutting the hull. Build shim plate wedges to fit the transom inside and outside. Picture a tapered plate 3/8" tick at the top and 1/16" at the bottom. as wide as the mounting face of the engines, made of successive layers of glass and epoxy resin. Maintain a smooth surface on both sides of the shim by clamping it between two hard surfaces to set up. I would use a couple of aluminum plates for that, covered with plastic wrap or liberally painted with mold release.
I would use epoxy and compress the layup to achieve the hardest cure possible. The aluminum plates would help distribute the heat evenly thru the layup, and you would end up with a very high glass to resin ratio. You could probably shave with the results!

Interesting, and probably the right answer for some problems.

a. My transoms are probably too thick. The original owner had some failures where the screws clamp and repaired them with Marine Tex, which of course did nothing. I repaired the soft spots by laminating on 1/4-inch pre-laminated FRP over the entire forward surface, which made for very strong mounts... that fill the available clamping space almost completly.

b. The hull I'm talking about posibly cutting is a few inches of the battery shelf. Not something critical, or in fact, difficult to replace. Doing this would allow me to get the props WELL out of the water, which has value as well.

But I won't do any of this until my next haul-out, which should be summer 2013. Plenty of time to think and consider. I will take a close look at your idea and measuring angles, and I may yet proclaim it "brilliant!"

This is how I mounted the power tilt engines. The same principal would apply to the manual tilt and retain the up / down engine lock.

I will try to attach photos of what I have done on MIDORI, a shim on the transum. The engine is fully out of the water.

I did not through bolt the motor mount, I wanted to be able to lift the motor up into the cockpit. I have a pad on the bridgedeck from prior failure of the old reverse lock.

Foot note, I do not recommend the power tilt, the motor mount drags in the water.

I will certainly look at the wedges. I have some pre-cast frp I could simply grind to the profile in 15 minutes.

I also notice the kick-up plate. Everyone should add those.

http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2011/ ... jects.html