Repainting

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amytom
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Repainting

Post by amytom »

Along with my hijack of the other thread I wanted to ask about repainting. I have a few areas that are chipping. They are the areas repaired by a PO and the surface prep may not have been what it could be.
I have seen others sanding and painting at my marina but I will ask the harbour master before the glass work (on top deck only.)
For the paint; what have others used (probably not AwlGrip due to spray and expense), and what colors match?

Any advice for surface prep, priming, paint timing, non skid additives, etc...



BTW Happy Thanksgiving to all... I woke up alive and employed; I am very thankfull
Marc Gershel
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Re: Repainting

Post by Marc Gershel »

Hi, I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for. When I built up my stern steps, I painted them with with Interlux 2-part polyurethane ( Interthane??). I think the color was Hatteras White. Almost a perfect match. After 7 years it still looks new. Amazing stuff.
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Hooking up a grinder or sander for dust colection is simple

Post by thinwater »

Many finish sanders come with the adapters and suck the paint through holes in the paper. They work even better with drywall paper, particularly if sanding bottom paint. A shop vac is good, but since the dust volume is low I actually use a small thrift-store vacuum that is smaller and quieter. Dust collection with an angle grinder is less effective and requires the use of a guard, which can pose problems.

These paints don't hide anything. Surface prep must be perfect.

Sand near anyone painting, and they will come after you with a mallet.

Drive SLOWLY in the yard.

I have used both Brightsides (lasts ~ 7 years but is easier) and Perfection (lasts ~ 12 years but is more painful). Both can be applied by mohair roller, with or without tipping with brush. The key is using JUST the right amount of thinner to allow to paint to self-level, without dripping. The BEST advise is to have a test piece of something very smooth on-hand and adjust to the weather. Low humidity, low wind, no bugs, 70-85 temp, and out-of-the sun if possible (dries too fast). I always found the hull sides simple, but the topsides FAR more difficult, because of all of the curves. Very difficult to work quickly enough without drying issues, without rushing. A skilled helper is very useful.

No idea on color. However, if you are trying to match the gelcoat I would suggest talking to the auto paint guys; they have good 2-part products for FRP that they can match to anything. I imagine they can be rolled or sprayed, but you would have to experiment. They may dry too fast.

Post some pictures. That might help with suggestions.

And don't get too hung on looking "yachty." Reliability trumps looks every time.

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Page 83
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Re: Repainting

Post by Page 83 »

Color matching is an art I have not mastered.. When possible paint a large area to an edge or shadow line so that minor differences don't show. much.
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amytom
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Re: Repainting

Post by amytom »

Page 83 wrote:Color matching is an art I have not mastered.. When possible paint a large area to an edge or shadow line so that minor differences don't show. much.
Good idea. I wonder if the transition from smooth deck to nonskid would hide the color variations?
amytom
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Re: Repainting

Post by amytom »

Marc Gershel wrote:Hi, I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for. When I built up my stern steps, I painted them with with Interlux 2-part polyurethane ( Interthane??). I think the color was Hatteras White. Almost a perfect match. After 7 years it still looks new. Amazing stuff.
Marc
How hard was it to work with the 2 part stuff? Does it have to be sprayed or can it be rolled? If spray is required can it be done with an inexpensive airless rig or do I need to drag the compressor down the dock?

I'm thinking rolling would be best for dockside work.
I don't want to upset the big guy down the dock...
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Re: Hooking up a grinder or sander for dust colection is simple

Post by amytom »

thinwater wrote:And don't get too hung on looking "yachty." Reliability trumps looks every time.
I normally lean towards function over form but some of the areas are chipped up so bad that I see yellow glass where it should be white. A couple of areas in the port cabin show sunlight on the backside of the carpet liner due to paint loss.

The fairing issues are less critical but still would be nice to repair. I'll take pictures when I go to the boat later this weekend. I picked up a new helm seat and need to install it (Tempress Elite Captain's Series)
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The Perfection was not hard to work with...

Post by thinwater »

But I do not know about others. Of course, with any 2-part, you have to plan a bit more.

Tip with any 2-part or epoxy: NEVER, NEVER keep materials in the sun you are not actively using. Keep them in an AC area before mixing or even in a cooler with a little ice in the summer. The pot life will be VERY short, if they are warm when mixed.

The non-skid area only idea makes a lot of sense, to me. In fact, on my last boat the non-skid was a different color. If I were painting only the non-skid areas I would roll it on in very thin coats, which will make it close to fool proof and will insure the non-skid is preserved. Even if I had spray equipment, I would roll small non-skid areas.

Not that any of us make foolish mistakes on boats :lol: .
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Re: Repainting

Post by amytom »

I promised pictures so here goes; hopefully they're not too big.
This shows poor fairing on the port rear portion of the cockpit
This shows poor fairing on the port rear portion of the cockpit
Port rear quarter.JPG (56.45 KiB) Viewed 16926 times
amytom
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Re: Repainting

Post by amytom »

And for the slider hatch:
Slider hatch
Slider hatch
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amytom
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Re: Repainting

Post by amytom »

The slider cover:
Slider cover.JPG
Slider cover.JPG (14.37 KiB) Viewed 16900 times
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Re: Repainting

Post by amytom »

The pictures of the bow didn't turn out very well, it was night time and the flash was reflecting off the dew. The other pictures show similar areas.

Any thoughts on repair options or should I leave it alone?
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Re: Repainting

Post by thinwater »

amytom wrote:The pictures of the bow didn't turn out very well, it was night time and the flash was reflecting off the dew. The other pictures show similar areas.

Any thoughts on repair options or should I leave it alone?
I would look a the inside to see if they were cosmetic only and to see if the repairs look sound from inside. As for appearance, I might be temped to live with it for a while. It's ugly work, sure enough, but something else might happen that triggers more painting.
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Re: Repainting

Post by amytom »

As for the structural aspect of the repairs I have a copy of the survey done by Charles Kantor after the repair. He said the repairs were grotesque but very structural.

If this was a car I would do the bodywork slowly over time. I get the feeling that fiberglass is much more difficult to work with then Bondo though.
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More difficult than bodywork?

Post by thinwater »

No, not difficult - just a new skill set. I would read-up a good bit before you start. It would be best if you could do an unimportant project first, to see how the materials behave and to calm the nerves.

That is what I would have guessed - strong but ugly. Better than the other way.
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