Quick Genius windlass problem

[Stray Cat]

In Stray Cat, MV34-12 we recently had the stripper plate dissintigrate on our windlass. This plate serves to strip the chain and the line out of the gypsey when launching or recovering the anchor, and with the plate gone both continue to wind around the gypsey and instantly bind up the windlass and thus disable the anchoring operation. The problem is caused by the manufacturer selecting aluminum alloy for the stripper plate, in an application with great forces and lots of friction involved; with zinc and steel from the chain, stainless from the gypsey and plate mounting screws, and aluminum alloys from the stripper plate and the housing of the windlass, all immersed in abrasive sand, etc. and liberally sloshed in salt water. Abrasion of the alloy part insures failures in the coatings and stress cracking around the mounting screws, with ensuing electrolytic damage to the stripper plate, which in my case failed around the mounting bolt holes first, leading to a catastrphic crunch and a bound up and disabled anchoring system.

Thankfully when our system failed we were in a quiet anchorage with lots of time to work out alternative means of recovering the anchor and no safety issues at hand. It could have been scarey/expensive/dangerous instead of just frustrating and messy.

The problem could be postponed by keeping the two allen screws securing the plate tight, probably with Locktite blue or such. The word should go out to the fleet, (I think some of the sailboats also are fitted with this windlass) that the two screws securing the stripper plate, easilly seen from the right side of the unit, just below and slightly forward of the gypsey; should be periodically checked for tightness and the stripper plate inspected for signs of damage.

Some sort of spare on board seems highly advisable! The replacement is easilly done without disassembling anything. I will keep matching stainless allen bolts and the required allen wrench in the baggie with the spare plate.

The windlass is imported from Italy by Plastimo USA Inc., 7455 16th Street East, Suite #107, Sarasota, FL, 34243, voice phone: 941.360.1888 and fax: 941.360.1648. They drop-shipped their part 303650966, called "stripper, Genius 600/1000," for about twenty bucks. As indicated it seems to fit all the available Genius models. I special ordered mine through West Marine, who researched the source for me and set up the drop ship delivery for a small fee, but I expect that you could as easilly contact Plastimo directly.

I am investigating having a local shop knock off a stainless plate -- it has no particularly critical dimensions other than placing the two counterbored mounting screw holes.

I suggest that every boat keep either a spare stainless plate aboard or a factory alloy plate in order to assure that the anchor is never disabled.

Email me through the forum if you have any questions.

Gary Bell

[Stray Cat]

Flash Update:
The mounting bolts are chemically WELDED into the case. NO FUN. Both are about 4mm/70 stainless socket head bolts, in an aluminum alloy case, and in the electrolytic soup I mentioned in the last message they both chemically bonded themselves into the case. I got the forward one out with considerable fuss, but the second/aft one is still defying my best efforts. I have rounded out the allen socket, diamond sawed a straight slot in the head and distorded that beyond usefullness. I have nothing aboard which will grip the head or threaded shaft of the screw amidst crummy clearance with the case, and so it has been soaking in penetrating oil for a week or so now, awaiting a moment I can get back aboard to attack the little monster. I don't particularly want to dismount the windlass, but might have to.

I will try to find a tougher stainless bolt for the repair, and some sort of anti-seize goop inside the threaded case, with probably a caulking product on the face where the stripper plate and case meet.

I'll keep ya posted....

[Page 83]

A cheap vibrating "etching pen" can help penetrating oil wick into seized threads. The vibrations sort of pump WD40 into the microscopic voids. If you can get a drill bit into the head of the bolt, drill the biggest hole into it that won't hit the threaded part of the housing, then try a screw extractor bit. DON'T buy cheap here.

[Stray Cat]

News flash!

I still can't get one of the two mounting screws out. Instead of pulling the whole #$% windlass off the deck and fetching it to my shop I plan to Dremel-saw off the head of the offending 4X.70 SS screw and mount the replacement stripper plate with the headless stud acting as an alignment pin and the one remaining screw attaching the plate. I will goop it pretty well with some non-hardening caulk and keep a close eye on it.

Anchoring by hand works, but is challenging and messy, and I dread the day the hook catches on something and I have a real struggle with it.

[PDQfan]

So, 19 years after this post I have the same exact issue where the chain stripper piece broke (meaning I am unable to retract the anchor as the chain jams in the gypsy) and to remove the old stripper I was able to get the aft bolt off but sheared the head off of the fore bolt. Quick no longer makes the original chain stripper part. However, the lateest version of the Genius (GP2) has a gypsy with an integrated, stainless steel, chain stripper so a much better design. Unfortunately it was $360 from Quick but at least it is cheaper than replacing the windlass. In my case using just 1 bolt and the remaining post of the other worked perfectly as the bolts just hold the stripper vertically and from spinning with the gypsy.


Part# -
FVSSBGP20516A00 (OSP GYPSY GP2 1500-2000 5/16")