What are the last factory builds with outboards using for hot water. I read some of the old posts on the Wolters but didn't see any alternatives apart from rebuilding it.
I sent my SPS ( wolter name #2) to Steve Aldrich for repair but at nearly a thousand bucks want to look at other options. Steve recomended a Precision Temp but it looks like that is a Wolter name #3. I don't get the warm fuzzies dealing with a company that seems to have had 3 names in the last 10 years.
Been looking at the units for RV's but don't like the idea of a constant pilot light.
Thinking about an electric model 115v but with just a honda eu2000 havent found one with low enough amperage.
Suggestions please
thanks
water heater
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Gonesailing
Wolter water heater
The original Wolter heaters are very simple and quite easy to repair. Mine has died a few times, but I've fixed it.
First the heat exchanger froze over winter. I pulled it out, took it to a rad shop and $50.00 later it was good as new.
Then some connections inside failed. For some reason, they used copper (not tined copper) in the terminal block and they turned a lovely shade of green. Changed the wires to tinned copper. Problem solved.
The ignitor/sensor on the unit WILL get dirty (carbon build up) with just a month or two of use. Symptom will be: when you turn the water on, you will hear the sparker clicking away, and the unit will light, but it goes out within about 15 seconds or so (as I recall). The reason is because the sensor is dirty and doesn't send a signal telling the control module that the flame lit. The control module then shuts off the gas to prevent a build up of unburned gas.
Cleaning the igniter sensor is a pain in the butt. You have to bend the copper at the bottom of the heat exchanger up quite a bit to get fingers in there, and wipe it clean with a wet cloth. The sensor and ignitor are two wires sticking into where the flame burns.
The ONLY thing in the heater that is proprietary is the actual module. Since it's epoxied, you can not fix it. There is a manufacturer name and number on it, and perhaps a replacement can be purchased. I don't know and hope I don't need to find out.
I am always hoping that someone will donate their dead wolter 300 to me someday so that I can some scrounge parts (specifically that module and burner).
The flow switch is commerically available, as is the propane solonoid. The burner might be custom as well....not sure...never checked. But it's simple and would be fairly easy to fabricate out of 316 or 304.
If anyone needs the manual for the Wolter 300, I scanned it as a PDF file and would be happy to email it to anyone leaving an email addy here.
First the heat exchanger froze over winter. I pulled it out, took it to a rad shop and $50.00 later it was good as new.
Then some connections inside failed. For some reason, they used copper (not tined copper) in the terminal block and they turned a lovely shade of green. Changed the wires to tinned copper. Problem solved.
The ignitor/sensor on the unit WILL get dirty (carbon build up) with just a month or two of use. Symptom will be: when you turn the water on, you will hear the sparker clicking away, and the unit will light, but it goes out within about 15 seconds or so (as I recall). The reason is because the sensor is dirty and doesn't send a signal telling the control module that the flame lit. The control module then shuts off the gas to prevent a build up of unburned gas.
Cleaning the igniter sensor is a pain in the butt. You have to bend the copper at the bottom of the heat exchanger up quite a bit to get fingers in there, and wipe it clean with a wet cloth. The sensor and ignitor are two wires sticking into where the flame burns.
The ONLY thing in the heater that is proprietary is the actual module. Since it's epoxied, you can not fix it. There is a manufacturer name and number on it, and perhaps a replacement can be purchased. I don't know and hope I don't need to find out.
I am always hoping that someone will donate their dead wolter 300 to me someday so that I can some scrounge parts (specifically that module and burner).
The flow switch is commerically available, as is the propane solonoid. The burner might be custom as well....not sure...never checked. But it's simple and would be fairly easy to fabricate out of 316 or 304.
If anyone needs the manual for the Wolter 300, I scanned it as a PDF file and would be happy to email it to anyone leaving an email addy here.
Water Heater
We're Hull #80 and have a Precision Temp. We had a few problems the 1st year and nothing in the past 4 years. I have to say that they love their product and the owner stayed on the phone to troubleshoot the problem back then. When it dies, I would like an alternative but, not sure what's available. Rich Tanner on Feral Cat installed the electric model and uses the Honda 2000 to power it.
Roger and Bonnie
water heater
ours is electric 9 ( hull # 96). We were having a diesel genset put in anyway, so it was very convenient to have the electric heater. No problems at all.
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Marc Gershel
- admiral
- Posts: 204
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 1:58 am
- Location: Philadelphia.Pa 36021
I have about five Wolters in various conditions. If someone needs parts to rebuild one please let me know.
The problem with some of these units was the flow control switch. If it stuck in the off position, the unit would not light. If it stuck in on position the unit would boil out all the water and then melt down. Later units had a temperature sensitive diode to prevent this, but the diode temperature was very low and often failed, rendering the unit inop. I'm sure this drove owners nuts but it can easily be replaced by a higher value diode from Radio Shack. I also installed a red pilot light inside the boat so I can monitor the valve position and a second gas valve at the propane tank so when the hot water CB is off there is no gas to the heater compartment.
Chet
Allezcat 36010
The problem with some of these units was the flow control switch. If it stuck in the off position, the unit would not light. If it stuck in on position the unit would boil out all the water and then melt down. Later units had a temperature sensitive diode to prevent this, but the diode temperature was very low and often failed, rendering the unit inop. I'm sure this drove owners nuts but it can easily be replaced by a higher value diode from Radio Shack. I also installed a red pilot light inside the boat so I can monitor the valve position and a second gas valve at the propane tank so when the hot water CB is off there is no gas to the heater compartment.
Chet
Allezcat 36010
water heater
This is in response to Marc's question:
"Hi Dan, I was wondering if you could elaborate on your new genset. Weight, installation, cost?
Thanks, Marc 36021 Here's 2 Life"
Marc
The diesel generator is rated at 4.2 KW and is made by Entec. It is installed under the port aft bunk. Installed cost (from the factory) was about $9,000, less a net credit of $1,000 for the electric water heater in lieu of the standard propane heater , for a net add of $8,000. All in weight is about 200 pounds.
So far the unit has been almost flawless. (had one small control switch problem, but the factory was very responsive.)
Runs the battery charger, water heater, a/c and heater, plus misc outlets. I only need to run the water heater for a little while to get enough hot water for showers. It is nice to have the power when you need it.
I would recommend putting in a little extra soundproofing, as it is loud in the aft cabin. Otherwise it is not too bad.
"Hi Dan, I was wondering if you could elaborate on your new genset. Weight, installation, cost?
Thanks, Marc 36021 Here's 2 Life"
Marc
The diesel generator is rated at 4.2 KW and is made by Entec. It is installed under the port aft bunk. Installed cost (from the factory) was about $9,000, less a net credit of $1,000 for the electric water heater in lieu of the standard propane heater , for a net add of $8,000. All in weight is about 200 pounds.
So far the unit has been almost flawless. (had one small control switch problem, but the factory was very responsive.)
Runs the battery charger, water heater, a/c and heater, plus misc outlets. I only need to run the water heater for a little while to get enough hot water for showers. It is nice to have the power when you need it.
I would recommend putting in a little extra soundproofing, as it is loud in the aft cabin. Otherwise it is not too bad.
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Lady of the Lake
- Site Admin
- Posts: 626
- Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 1:37 pm
- Location: Punta Gorda, FL (36015)
- Contact:
Why don't I check the forum first?????
I also just sent my Wolter 300 to Steve Aldrich for repair. The unit was working fine until I got something caught on the cold water intake hose and snapped off the PLASTIC nipple on the flow switch. Why it was plastic I do not know. Anyway, I thought the nipple was an insert so I destroyed the switch with a nipple extractor. Then I noticed how bad the gas solenoid was rusted and decided it should be replaced too. So now I am looking at $400-500 in repairs for a unit that was working before my mistake. So, the question is, do I have the unit returned before any work is done? Do I buy parts from Chet on Allezcat and repair it myself? Or do I dump it and go with a different unit. I have heard that Bosch makes an electronic (battery) ignition unit that does not require a pilot and some folks like the Paloma unit. They both seem to be available for about the same price as repairs to my Wolter. Any recommendations?
Also GoneSailing (guest) has said that the flow swithch and solenoid are commercially available. Can you give sources and prices?
I also just sent my Wolter 300 to Steve Aldrich for repair. The unit was working fine until I got something caught on the cold water intake hose and snapped off the PLASTIC nipple on the flow switch. Why it was plastic I do not know. Anyway, I thought the nipple was an insert so I destroyed the switch with a nipple extractor. Then I noticed how bad the gas solenoid was rusted and decided it should be replaced too. So now I am looking at $400-500 in repairs for a unit that was working before my mistake. So, the question is, do I have the unit returned before any work is done? Do I buy parts from Chet on Allezcat and repair it myself? Or do I dump it and go with a different unit. I have heard that Bosch makes an electronic (battery) ignition unit that does not require a pilot and some folks like the Paloma unit. They both seem to be available for about the same price as repairs to my Wolter. Any recommendations?
Also GoneSailing (guest) has said that the flow swithch and solenoid are commercially available. Can you give sources and prices?
Sam and Gina Densler
s/v Lady of the Lake
PDQ36 Hull #15
Punta Gorda, FL
s/v Lady of the Lake
PDQ36 Hull #15
Punta Gorda, FL
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GoneSailing
Wolter Replace or repair.
I really like the design of the Wolter 300. It's simplicty is appealing to me.
Simple is good when cruising and needing repairs.
The flow switch is available off the shelf, as is the propane solonoid. Sorry I don't have part numbers at my fingertips. I picked up a solonoid at a local propane shop for about $20.00. It's just a 12vdc solonoid. Nothing special. The flow switch is also nothing special and you should be able to locate one online pretty quickly. It must fit the heat exchanger pipe and also be able to accept a (non plastic!) coupling for the 1/2" intake hose. It requires 1 quart per minute to activate, and is normally OPEN, meaning the connections from it CLOSE across terminals 8 and 9 of the terminal strip when water flows.
By the way, you're right the plastic insert on the flow switch is a stupid design flaw. If I was in your shoes, I'd source a better one and fix it myself. It should end up costing maybe $50.00 tops plus a few hours of your labor.
If you instead decide to replace it, please let me know. I'd be really interested in buying it from you for spare parts (module, burner, heat exchanger).
My current email is sellingstuff@mail.com
Simple is good when cruising and needing repairs.
The flow switch is available off the shelf, as is the propane solonoid. Sorry I don't have part numbers at my fingertips. I picked up a solonoid at a local propane shop for about $20.00. It's just a 12vdc solonoid. Nothing special. The flow switch is also nothing special and you should be able to locate one online pretty quickly. It must fit the heat exchanger pipe and also be able to accept a (non plastic!) coupling for the 1/2" intake hose. It requires 1 quart per minute to activate, and is normally OPEN, meaning the connections from it CLOSE across terminals 8 and 9 of the terminal strip when water flows.
By the way, you're right the plastic insert on the flow switch is a stupid design flaw. If I was in your shoes, I'd source a better one and fix it myself. It should end up costing maybe $50.00 tops plus a few hours of your labor.
If you instead decide to replace it, please let me know. I'd be really interested in buying it from you for spare parts (module, burner, heat exchanger).
My current email is sellingstuff@mail.com
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Lady of the Lake
- Site Admin
- Posts: 626
- Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 1:37 pm
- Location: Punta Gorda, FL (36015)
- Contact:
Looks like I am not going to have the Wolter repaired, they are asking too much money for just a pressure switch and a propane soleniod. the repair guy is interested in buying old units for parts. Before I sell it to him, I wanted to see if anyone on the list can benefit. I will find out what the repair guy is offering for the unit. "GoneSailing" (guest) has identified an interest but I am not getting a reply from your email so I thought I would post it here. If anyone else is interested in the unit, drop me an email at sdensler@mac.com. I would rather sell it to a PDQ owner than just have the precisiontemp guy repair it and sell for profit. His refurbished units on his website are going for $1000 and the new ones at precisiontemp (the next incarnation fo the Wolter) are going for $1500.
Sam and Gina Densler
s/v Lady of the Lake
PDQ36 Hull #15
Punta Gorda, FL
s/v Lady of the Lake
PDQ36 Hull #15
Punta Gorda, FL
water heater
We spend $400 getting our heater repaired by Steve Aldrich. A new model with on demand heat, was $1400. It was a penny wise dollar foolsih decision. It only worked intermittenly for a few times, than we send it back again for repair. Its a real pain to remove or install, and I do not feel confident that it will last. So far it cost about $50 per shower. Will advise re our experience.
Captain Hank
Captain Hank
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Lady of the Lake
- Site Admin
- Posts: 626
- Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 1:37 pm
- Location: Punta Gorda, FL (36015)
- Contact:
Sold the old Wolter to a fellow PDQ owner for parts. Went out on ebay and bought an Excel on-demand unit for $269 plus shipping for a total of around $300. Installed it in the same location as the Wolter and it is working fine. Not sure how long it will last since it is not specifically a marine unit but so far I am very happy with my decision. Provides plenty of hot water on demand.
Sam and Gina Densler
s/v Lady of the Lake
PDQ36 Hull #15
Punta Gorda, FL
s/v Lady of the Lake
PDQ36 Hull #15
Punta Gorda, FL
water heater
If anyone does have a PDF of the Walter manual please forward a copy to me.
Thanks
captain@nedlaw.com
PS: I beleive the cost we are all experiencing for repairing these units is outrageous.
Thanks
captain@nedlaw.com
PS: I beleive the cost we are all experiencing for repairing these units is outrageous.
Capthank,
I have the printed version of the Wolter manual. I could copy it and mail it if you wish. Need a mailing address.
Chet - Allezcat
cswhitejr@yahoo.com
I have the printed version of the Wolter manual. I could copy it and mail it if you wish. Need a mailing address.
Chet - Allezcat
cswhitejr@yahoo.com