Guys,
One of my two outboards is exhibiting a weird problem. When I hit the key to start, it turns 1/2 crank revolution and stops for like 2 seconds and then repeats.
This goes on for anywhere to 10 to 20 minutes and then for some reason, the engine then starts turning over normally and fires right up within a second or two.
So far, I have replaced the starter, the solenoid and cleaned all of the battery cables. The same batteries used for this engine start the other engine, so I do not think they can be the problem.
I removed the spark plugs and hit the starter and the engine turns over fine without hesitation. Of course it won't start like that with no plugs and no compression, but there is no delay for the starter engaging or the crank turning.
I should also say that the starter and solenoid I am using now I took off the other engine where they were working fine.
At this point I am ready to shoot the engine and put it out of it's misery. Anyone have any idea at all? Even wild random guesses are welcome at this point.
Thanks,
Tom
http://www.tendervittles.net
Yamaha 9.9 Starting Issues
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- 1st mate
- Posts: 30
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Power Harness
Don,
What do you mean when you say power harness? By the way, are you on your way back to the Bahamas this year?
Tom
What do you mean when you say power harness? By the way, are you on your way back to the Bahamas this year?
Tom
Tom,
Try shorting across the terminals of the start relay with a heavy duty screwdriver. Expect sparks! This will eliminate a bad starter relay. Otherwise it seems to indicate a bad starter or poor battery connection somewhere. Be sure to check the battery connections (for corrosion) at the main engine battery relay (usually a BlueSea relay mounted somewhere in the engine well) and the relay itself. Note that the engine starter relay (mounted on the engine) and the main engine battery relay are two different animals.
Chet
Allezcat 36010
Try shorting across the terminals of the start relay with a heavy duty screwdriver. Expect sparks! This will eliminate a bad starter relay. Otherwise it seems to indicate a bad starter or poor battery connection somewhere. Be sure to check the battery connections (for corrosion) at the main engine battery relay (usually a BlueSea relay mounted somewhere in the engine well) and the relay itself. Note that the engine starter relay (mounted on the engine) and the main engine battery relay are two different animals.
Chet
Allezcat 36010
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- admiral
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 1:30 pm
- Location: Washington, NC (34108)
Tom,
I second what Chet just said. When I replaced my engines, I decided to check the fuses in the red fuse holders.... they came apart in my hands... don't know how they worked... replaced them but should have relocated them out of the engine bay or at least enclosed them somehow.
I second what Chet just said. When I replaced my engines, I decided to check the fuses in the red fuse holders.... they came apart in my hands... don't know how they worked... replaced them but should have relocated them out of the engine bay or at least enclosed them somehow.
Ron McDaniel
TK III 34108
TK III 34108
Engine Repairs
All,
Ok, so it took a little while to get everything sorted out, but we are now back in business. It turns out that the original, factory power and ground cables that run from the firewall terminals down inside the front of the engine cowl were to blame.
More specifically, the first two feet of each cable (counting from the firewall end) were so corroded that they were impeding the flow of amps to the starter. Detecting this was somewhat problematic as the cables both showed proper voltage and almost no resistance.
In the end, I made up a 9 foot replacement cable of 6 gauge wire and started removing wires one jump at a time. As each line was removed, I tested it by jumping it across the cockpit and using it to start the other engine. This took a while, but it allowed me to eliminate each hop from the battery switch in the aft lazerette to the engine bay as the problem.
In the end I was able to get the engine to start by bypassing the ground engine lead and using my jumper cable to ground the starter directly. Afterwards, it was a simple matter of cutting the original cables back four feet and soldering on new terminal ends.
Thanks for all the advice.
Tom
Ok, so it took a little while to get everything sorted out, but we are now back in business. It turns out that the original, factory power and ground cables that run from the firewall terminals down inside the front of the engine cowl were to blame.
More specifically, the first two feet of each cable (counting from the firewall end) were so corroded that they were impeding the flow of amps to the starter. Detecting this was somewhat problematic as the cables both showed proper voltage and almost no resistance.
In the end, I made up a 9 foot replacement cable of 6 gauge wire and started removing wires one jump at a time. As each line was removed, I tested it by jumping it across the cockpit and using it to start the other engine. This took a while, but it allowed me to eliminate each hop from the battery switch in the aft lazerette to the engine bay as the problem.
In the end I was able to get the engine to start by bypassing the ground engine lead and using my jumper cable to ground the starter directly. Afterwards, it was a simple matter of cutting the original cables back four feet and soldering on new terminal ends.
Thanks for all the advice.
Tom