My 36 LRC (36052) surprisingly does not have a windlass. This year I'm going to upgrade the ground tackle and maybe install a windlass.
I don't know much about them generally, or much about where they're installed on other 36's. I imagine that the forward starboard locker is probably the right place. I'm just not sure about manual vs electric, and horizontal vs vertical, which brand, etc...
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Windlass Ideas?
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chicagocat
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- Location: Chicago (36052)
Windlass Ideas?
PDQ 36052 - 1996 LRC - "Anne Z" - Chicago
and 2001 PDQ 36 Classic (Tall Rig)- "Cat Tales" - Punta Gorda, FL
and 2001 PDQ 36 Classic (Tall Rig)- "Cat Tales" - Punta Gorda, FL
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Cat Tales
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- Location: Boynton Beach, FL (36081)
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There are many choices - it all depends on your budget. My personal preference is a vertical windlass (with the motor below decks). We have the Sprint 1000, which is not the best brand, but sufficient for our cruising needs. You'll want to have controls at your windlass (either foot switches or a remote) and a second switch at your helm. Also make sure you have sufficient support/backing glassed into the underside of your deck for the added strain. Don't rely on the backing plates that may be provided with the windlass.
Chris & Kelly Haretos
Formally of s/v Cat Tales, 36081
Boynton Beach, FL
Formally of s/v Cat Tales, 36081
Boynton Beach, FL
windlass musings or mindless woozings
'Page 83' has a vertical axis 1000# Lofrans just aft of the starboard bow locker, and "0" gage 12 volt cables from the battery box. It works fine, but I always run the generator when I'm using it. I've chartered other cats and really like the idea of using the anchor windlass to raise the mainsail. This can be done on the 36 only with a lot of additional glass work, reinforcing the deck forward of the mast. and possibly routing the rode to the starboard locker through the "chin". Later boats would need a chain trough to the front crossbar.
I've also toyed with the idea of a separate battery forward, recharged by a small A/C charger. Those single Ought cables weigh more than a battery, and use up half the space in the cable channel just above the steps to the starboard hull.
I've also toyed with the idea of a separate battery forward, recharged by a small A/C charger. Those single Ought cables weigh more than a battery, and use up half the space in the cable channel just above the steps to the starboard hull.
Sandy Daugherty "Page 83" PDQ 36026
Loki, 36072, has a factory installed Sprint 1000 on the starboard bow. It works OK, but the original failed after about 5 years. I replaced with the same rather than cut a new hole, but if I were starting fresh I would look carefully for the most reliable, rugged unit.
My old boat had a manual windlass, I wouldn't do it again! My big issue is that like the freedom to reset the anchor without worrying about the hassle to hoist. I like the vertical windlass. Some come with a drum which could be handy once every few years, but the rope/chain gypsy works fine for me. (I use 50 feet of chain, the rest nerope 3-strand.)
I favor using cables from the main bank, rather than a dedicated battery. 100 feet of 1/0 cable is only 44 lbs, so a dedicated battery doesn't save weight, it just adds weight in the bow and becomes another maintenance issue. Don't skimp on the cable, even with 1/0 there is a voltage drop and you don't want that to be worse. The draw is about 80 Amps, so having an engine or genset running will keep the voltage up at the battery.
I usually use the deck switches at the bow while my wife positions the boat from the helm, but on occasion I've used the remote windlass switch at the helm. Its definitely worthwhile.
My old boat had a manual windlass, I wouldn't do it again! My big issue is that like the freedom to reset the anchor without worrying about the hassle to hoist. I like the vertical windlass. Some come with a drum which could be handy once every few years, but the rope/chain gypsy works fine for me. (I use 50 feet of chain, the rest nerope 3-strand.)
I favor using cables from the main bank, rather than a dedicated battery. 100 feet of 1/0 cable is only 44 lbs, so a dedicated battery doesn't save weight, it just adds weight in the bow and becomes another maintenance issue. Don't skimp on the cable, even with 1/0 there is a voltage drop and you don't want that to be worse. The draw is about 80 Amps, so having an engine or genset running will keep the voltage up at the battery.
I usually use the deck switches at the bow while my wife positions the boat from the helm, but on occasion I've used the remote windlass switch at the helm. Its definitely worthwhile.
Jeff Morris, Loki 36072
Loki, 36072, has a factory installed Sprint 1000 on the starboard bow. It works OK, but the original failed after about 5 years. I replaced with the same rather than cut a new hole, but if I were starting fresh I would look carefully for the most reliable, rugged unit.
My old boat had a manual windlass, I wouldn't do it again! My big issue is that like the freedom to reset the anchor without worrying about the hassle to hoist. I like the vertical windlass. Some come with a drum which could be handy once every few years, but the rope/chain gypsy works fine for me. (I use 50 feet of chain, the rest nerope 3-strand.)
I favor using cables from the main bank, rather than a dedicated battery. 100 feet of 1/0 cable is only 44 lbs, so a dedicated battery doesn't save weight, it just adds weight in the bow and becomes another maintenance issue. Don't skimp on the cable, even with 1/0 there is a voltage drop and you don't want that to be worse. The draw is about 80 Amps, so having an engine or genset running will keep the voltage up at the battery.
I usually use the deck switches at the bow while my wife positions the boat from the helm, but on occasion I've used the remote windlass switch at the helm. Its definitely worthwhile.
My old boat had a manual windlass, I wouldn't do it again! My big issue is that like the freedom to reset the anchor without worrying about the hassle to hoist. I like the vertical windlass. Some come with a drum which could be handy once every few years, but the rope/chain gypsy works fine for me. (I use 50 feet of chain, the rest nerope 3-strand.)
I favor using cables from the main bank, rather than a dedicated battery. 100 feet of 1/0 cable is only 44 lbs, so a dedicated battery doesn't save weight, it just adds weight in the bow and becomes another maintenance issue. Don't skimp on the cable, even with 1/0 there is a voltage drop and you don't want that to be worse. The draw is about 80 Amps, so having an engine or genset running will keep the voltage up at the battery.
I usually use the deck switches at the bow while my wife positions the boat from the helm, but on occasion I've used the remote windlass switch at the helm. Its definitely worthwhile.
Jeff Morris, Loki 36072
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chicagocat
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- Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2004 2:39 pm
- Location: Chicago (36052)
Thanks guys,
It sounds like you're running the power from the starting batteries instead of the house bank. Is there a reason for that? Since the alternators on the LRC are large and charge both banks, it seems that I could use the house bank.
After installing new electronics last year, I can't imagine being able to get a 0 gauge cable through the cable channel at the top of the starboard stairs. If I use the house bank I won't have to go through the cable channel, I think.
The Lofrans vertical windlasses seem to be very well regarded, and they're probably at the top of my list right now.
It sounds like you're running the power from the starting batteries instead of the house bank. Is there a reason for that? Since the alternators on the LRC are large and charge both banks, it seems that I could use the house bank.
After installing new electronics last year, I can't imagine being able to get a 0 gauge cable through the cable channel at the top of the starboard stairs. If I use the house bank I won't have to go through the cable channel, I think.
The Lofrans vertical windlasses seem to be very well regarded, and they're probably at the top of my list right now.
PDQ 36052 - 1996 LRC - "Anne Z" - Chicago
and 2001 PDQ 36 Classic (Tall Rig)- "Cat Tales" - Punta Gorda, FL
and 2001 PDQ 36 Classic (Tall Rig)- "Cat Tales" - Punta Gorda, FL
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chicagocat
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- Posts: 181
- Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2004 2:39 pm
- Location: Chicago (36052)
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SecondWind
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- Location: Punta Gorda, Fl (33950)
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Second Wind has a Lewmar Anchorman. When we bought the boat it was 7 years old and had failed. Lewmar would not talk to me or supply parts to repair the electric motor. I could not even get brushes. This summer I again needed to replace brushes and had them made by a machine shop in Wisconsin. It cost me about $100, which was far cheaper than a $2500 motor (which of course excludes all of the windlass parts). I would not buy anything made by Lewmar, since they are only interested in selling you new, very expensive equipment without long term support.
Terry Green
s/v Second Wind
36040
s/v Second Wind
36040
windlassies
No! My start batteries do nothing but start the outboards and the generator. They can be charged by shore power, solar panels, generator, or the outboards. The windlass runs off the house bank, four Deka 6 volt wet cells of indeterminate age, that require frequent fluid checks.
In an emergency, I can jump from on set to another.
In an emergency, I can jump from on set to another.
Sandy Daugherty "Page 83" PDQ 36026
My windlass is hooked up to the house bank - the starting batteries are effectively hardwired to their respective engines. (Loki is an LRC, BTW.)
As for running through the chase, I think that's how its wired, but I can't get on the boat right now to check it. Mine is pretty full, but there's always room for one more wire. Perhaps it got enlarged at some point.
And sorry about the double post ... I don't know how that happened
As for running through the chase, I think that's how its wired, but I can't get on the boat right now to check it. Mine is pretty full, but there's always room for one more wire. Perhaps it got enlarged at some point.
And sorry about the double post ... I don't know how that happened
Jeff Morris, Loki 36072
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philiprmcgovern
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- Posts: 99
- Joined: Sun Dec 17, 2006 11:56 am
- Location: Rio Dulce, Guatemala (36036)
- Contact:
Windlass installation
ChicagoCat:
Sunshine's windlasses are vertical Simpson Lawrences and are powered by the house batteries. They are as old as the boat (1994) and, so far, they have given us no grief whatsoever.
We'll be on the boat in about three weeks and I'll be glad to send you photos of the installation or answer any questions from "on the scene." Meanwhile, I have the "DIY Boatowner" set of CD's which includes several pages on installing an electric windlass in PDF format. It looks good and includes lots of photos and diagrams. If you'd like a copy of the relevant CD, let me know your mailing address.
Best wishes and I hope you're keeping warm in the Windy City.
Phil McGovern
s/v Sunshine
PDQ 36036
philiprmcgovern@gmail.com
Sunshine's windlasses are vertical Simpson Lawrences and are powered by the house batteries. They are as old as the boat (1994) and, so far, they have given us no grief whatsoever.
We'll be on the boat in about three weeks and I'll be glad to send you photos of the installation or answer any questions from "on the scene." Meanwhile, I have the "DIY Boatowner" set of CD's which includes several pages on installing an electric windlass in PDF format. It looks good and includes lots of photos and diagrams. If you'd like a copy of the relevant CD, let me know your mailing address.
Best wishes and I hope you're keeping warm in the Windy City.
Phil McGovern
s/v Sunshine
PDQ 36036
philiprmcgovern@gmail.com
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chicagocat
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- Location: Chicago (36052)
Thanks Phil,
Yeah, the windy city is particularly ugly this winter. Already snow piled everywhere.
Thanks for the advice. It looks like I can wire the windlass to the house bank (which is under the port settee on my boat). That way I can avoid trying to get that 0 gauge through the wire chase.
I'll take a look at the Simpson Lawrence windlasses. Based on Terry's experience, I think I'll avoid the Lewmar.
I'll drop you an email about your installation. Maybe I can get more info when you're on the boat in a few weeks.
Thanks again,
Brendan
Yeah, the windy city is particularly ugly this winter. Already snow piled everywhere.
Thanks for the advice. It looks like I can wire the windlass to the house bank (which is under the port settee on my boat). That way I can avoid trying to get that 0 gauge through the wire chase.
I'll take a look at the Simpson Lawrence windlasses. Based on Terry's experience, I think I'll avoid the Lewmar.
I'll drop you an email about your installation. Maybe I can get more info when you're on the boat in a few weeks.
Thanks again,
Brendan
PDQ 36052 - 1996 LRC - "Anne Z" - Chicago
and 2001 PDQ 36 Classic (Tall Rig)- "Cat Tales" - Punta Gorda, FL
and 2001 PDQ 36 Classic (Tall Rig)- "Cat Tales" - Punta Gorda, FL
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philiprmcgovern
- skipper
- Posts: 99
- Joined: Sun Dec 17, 2006 11:56 am
- Location: Rio Dulce, Guatemala (36036)
- Contact:
Brendan:
No problem. It turns out that Simpson Lawrence is a "Lewmar Company." I don't know the relationship, but you may want to avoid them as well. BTW, I'm sure PS has done reviews on windlasses. While you're waiting for the snow to melt, you might want to check out the Lewmar "How to select and install your windlass" videos at
http://en.lewmar.com/support/index.aspx ... &sublink=b
Most of our snow here in Colt's Country should melt today. We can't wait to get on the boat and head South!
If you change your mind about the CD, just let me know.
Phil
No problem. It turns out that Simpson Lawrence is a "Lewmar Company." I don't know the relationship, but you may want to avoid them as well. BTW, I'm sure PS has done reviews on windlasses. While you're waiting for the snow to melt, you might want to check out the Lewmar "How to select and install your windlass" videos at
http://en.lewmar.com/support/index.aspx ... &sublink=b
Most of our snow here in Colt's Country should melt today. We can't wait to get on the boat and head South!
If you change your mind about the CD, just let me know.
Phil
Brendan,
Regardless of which windlass you install, be careful to install it where the wood coring is; just forward of the hatch where the bow cleat is mounted. I moved my bow cleat outboard to make room for a Sprint 1000 which I am not particularly fond of although I do like a vertical windlass with a drum. You can see where the wood core is by getting in the bowlocker on a sunny day and looking up.
Chet
Allezcat 36010
Regardless of which windlass you install, be careful to install it where the wood coring is; just forward of the hatch where the bow cleat is mounted. I moved my bow cleat outboard to make room for a Sprint 1000 which I am not particularly fond of although I do like a vertical windlass with a drum. You can see where the wood core is by getting in the bowlocker on a sunny day and looking up.
Chet
Allezcat 36010