PDQ OWNERS FORUM

Have any of you installed a CMC Cook Mfg PT-35 Tilt & Trim? Issue is my wife cannot raise or lower the 9.9 outboard motors. Additionally, the “strapping” down of the motors to prevent slipping the lock when going in reverse is also problematic. My thought is the use of a power tilt would address both problems. I am not currently interested in buying the new Yamahas with power tilt so I am looking at this stand alone version. Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

... if the tilt doesn't work out. It's currently 2:1, so go 4:1 and possibly add a cam cleat so you can pause. It should then be very easy. I put 6:1 purchase on my tender so that my small daughter could manage. You may need to down in line size to have a smooth run.

Another answer on the pull-up and be inserting a handle at the end of the rope.

And of course, the strap-down can be ropes and pulleys also. I like lifting the cover; it FORCES me to pump the primer and watch the water flow, and encourages me to check the oil.

Thanks, valued knowledge just down the creek is very much appreciated...I have been considering a different block & tackle arangemnt. Perhaps one that keeps positive tension on the motor both ways, so I don't have to do the strap thing to lock the motors down. Also thought of a possible winch arangement as well. I just think there has to be a better way of doing this than what I have now. Seems to me, the power tilt will also clean up the motor well getting rid of extra "stuff".

Agreed. It's a goofy system.

On the PDQ 32 I'm pretty sure you will run into clearance issues, on the PDQ 36, I have no idea.

Do be certain that the difference in lift does not make regular service a pain.

Something else to consider, everything breaks eventually. When the aftermarket tilt fails will you be able to lower the engine so it can be pulled out for repair? It would be darn near impossible to pull out an engine stuck in the full up position.

Hey Catch 22,

I see this device has a 5 1/2" setback. I think if you check dimensions in the engine well that the setback would prevent the engine from tilting up out of the water. If I wanted electro/hydraulic tilt, I think I would opt for a new set of Yamahas with that feature built in. Just my two cents worth.

Chet
Allez Cat / 36010

Here's another two cents: It appears that the CMC Cook Mfg PT-35 Tilt & Trim raises the engine 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" higher in the engine well, which may bump up the engine hatch. This happens because their hinge pin is tha much lower than the engine's. And for yet another two cents it looks like the RT-35 bracket will extend below the nacelles, dragging anodized aluminum in the water and splashing water up into the works.

If you are absolutely sold on doing this, consider removing the nacelles and cutting out the transoms. Reglass a new transom with an inch and a half of marine plywood seven inches further forward and extending enough below the existing transom to provide strucural support for the parts that bolt onto a transom. You will also have to check to see that the engine doesn't now kink the shift and throttle cables at the front. And a bit of fairing (or a cutwater) forward of the new transom might alleviate some of the splashing and drag.

Take lots of pictures and keep track of your time invested in this process. I'm thinking of doing something like this to install vibration dampers between the transom plate and the nacelle to reduce noise transmission. At this point I can be talked out of it.

ps I have power tilt on my current 8hp Yamaha Hight thrusts, and am grateful every time I raise or lower them without trashing another prop!

Thanks to all for your inputs. I too had concerns about the 5 1/2" set back. I think I may end up with waiting until I re-engine. In the mean time, I am going to try and come up with a better mousetrap with some sort of winching arrangement. I am also trying to come up with some sort of noise damping. Love everything about Catch 22 except how the engines are mounted. Of course, most of my long-in-the-tooth sailin’ buddies would say “just sail ‘er in & out don’ need no motor” Wish I was that good.

Before going to power-tilt, I put a 3:1 hoist on the engine, and a second line from the engine, forward through the nacelle drain and up to a clam cleat at the base of the captain's seats. I tied a pair of Harken balls on the bitter ends to make them easier to hold. And then bought engines with power-tilt. I need to suffer for every repair on a boat.

Sandy,

While I'm still using "garage sale" old style 9.9's that I keep putting back together; I eventually want new engines . I've helped others out with the swap to the new style engines but always manual tilt at least partially based on my recommendation. I fear adding anything else to break and cause Murphy joy, I also don't like the extra drag of the longer bracket hitting the water.

If you were to try to convince me that the power tilt was the only way to go; how would you make the case?


Tom

(PS your opinion matters more than you might think, based on your experience and methods)

A small handle on the end of the pull-up rope helps. Sort of like a smaller water ski handle. I've found this trick useful on a number of boats over the years, starting with my beach cat.

All you need is a 3 1/2 inches of tubing that the rope will just fit through. Round the cut edges and tie a bowline or figure-8 on a bight.